Acne Studios Presents Its New Men’s Spring/Summer 2022 Collection

Counterculture, community, and a renewed sense of faith: These are principles that describe the collection’s mood. 70s emblematic motifs are mixed with elements of different men’s uniforms to create a juxtaposition.

“This is a very personal collection for me, drawing on my subconscious memories of counterculture, especially in music. I like the contrast between the hard authority of the uniform, and the softness of those who seek another way to live,” says Jonny Johansson, Creative Director of Acne Studios.

The garments trigger nostalgia of blissed-out optimism and pleasure, with symbols of different belief systems and a relaxed way of living; embracing a decorative wardrobe of long, relaxed and flared lines. Uniforms are turned into garments of unity, like an oversized bomber with fertility symbols embroidered at the chest and checked cuffs, or a structured leather police jacket, its broad shoulders and utility pockets exaggerated and worn with striped wool bellbottom pants.

Tunics lengthen the silhouette, like a long viscose jersey tunic printed with soul-like images of the body by the artist Rabin Huissen, or a destroyed cotton jersey tunic with raw edges and holes, embroidered with the words ‘In the eye of the storm’. Knitwear looks handmade and pants have kick, like blue wool and lurex bellbottoms, or with inward facing pleats and a flared leg, as well as playful patchwork detailing and army pants with purposefully mismatching pockets. Flamboyancy is natural, like a peach polyester fluid shirt with wild ruffles over the shoulder and down the sleeves, or an oversized lilac cotton ripstop coated with flower quilting and snake print lining and lightweight zip-up technical outerwear is printed with peace signs.

Jewellery adds a feeling of travel and experience, like natural pearl necklaces and ear cuffs, metal peace signs, toe rings and fertility symbol necklaces. Futuristic sunglasses look as if the frame has been blown up away from the lens. Sandals are decorated with small shells, or are in leather stamped with baroque swirls. Military boots have cork soles finished with marbleised rubber and mules have high stack heels. Suede bags are in patchwork, while other bag shapes borrow from Acne Studios womenswear.

The collection’s mood is that of togetherness, of a world faith, and the wild freedom of style that comes when communities finally come together.

The Men’s Spring/Summer 2022 collection will be available in Acne Studios stores and on acnestudios.com.

Acne Studios Men’s SS22 Q&A with Jonny Johansson

• Can you tell us about the background to this collection?
  

This is a very personal collection for me. Because of lockdown, I’ve had more time for dreaming, and for getting closer to making clothes. I’ve had the time to work on design, and these elements from my subconscious are coming to the forefront of my mind.

• What are these elements?
  

Much of it is my memories of music. There are no literal references in this collection to any particular rock stars or bands. It’s more that I’m referring to the library in my mind, of my own memories and experiences. I like using this subconscious world as an influence, with its glimpses of details that come together to make something new.

• Tell us about the contrasts in the collection.
  

I love the juxtaposition between hard uniforms and pieces that are softer or more feminine. I have such respect for traditional menswear, but I always think there’s something about it that needs to
be questioned and changed. In this collection, it’s about questioning the power of this clothing, subverting it, and contrasting it with pieces that are super soft and fluid, elaborate and patterned. It’s a way of dressing that’s long been part of counterculture, and it is something that’s still relevant today.

• Can you tell us about some of your favourite pieces?
  

I love the tailored pieces that at first look super normal, then you realise there’s the sheen of Lurex in it, like a wool shorts suit, or flared tailored pants with a pinstripe of Lurex. Those pants are matched with a knitted tank that’s purposefully destroyed with large holes across the front, which have been embroidered with different colour threads. I love how poetic the piece is, and these two pieces together capture the mood of the collection for me.

• Talk us through the other garments of authority that you subvert.
  

Some are already part of the language of counterculture, like the bomber jacket, which originated as a military garment. We’ve subverted it here by embroidering it with symbols of fertility. We’ve also taken the structured shape of a police leather jacket, exaggerating, and playing with its strong shoulders and utility pockets. We’ve matched it with a pair of striped wool bellbottom pants to highlight the contrast between tough and fluid.