Xuly.Bët Presents Its New Fall-Winter 2023 Collection
Luxferity, 10.03.2023
This new year brings on a lot for XULY.Bët, which continues to celebrate its 30th anniversary. A regain of love for Paris, a cohesive creative team and new collaborations still confidential to come. For a few weeks now, the ‘FUNKIN’ FASHION FACTORY’ has installed its atelier in the heart of the 2nd arrondissement of Paris, in which designer Lamine Badian Kouyaté continues to spend his day stitching his creations and recycling pieces found in the surrounding thrift shops. Its address? 144, rue Saint-Denis.
In the middle of the Sentier, XULY.Bët continues to work with the neighborhood’s textile retailers, dear to Lamine Kouyaté’s heart, as he never stopped getting his supplies with them, despite many of them closing over the past twenty years.
It is that new Parisian dynamic that brought stylist & creative consultant Tati Cotliar (who has moved to Paris since last year) to suggest photographers Chaumont & Zaerpour to photograph the FW23-24 lookbook. This new set of creativity led the team to unveil its looks by shooting them in the surrounding streets.
In that ensemble of characters, we are waiting to cross the street. The feminine duo has managed to capture XULY.Bët’s Parisians as “neither too good, nor perfect, with a general composition full of rhythm” This season we think of the XULY.Bët client as still funky and creative, anchored in reality and very energetic. Overlays come back and are re-thought, pieces come out of the sewing machines to be immediately fitted.
To produce this collection, only one fabric was bought this season. By moving ateliers, we have rethought our existing stock and decided to work with it some more, preoccupied by sustainability but also to give ourselves a creative continuity and in order to be even more responsible still.
Last autumn, the KESHIKI gallery in Osaka, whose owner Yuko, an early admirer of XULY.Bët, approached our teams. Yuko works with the most traditional and emblematic garment of the Japanese wardrobe, the kimono, which she wishes to reintegrate into the wardrobe of the contemporary Japanese. Well chosen and reworked by her care, some of her pieces are over 50 years old. Her dynamic, so close and inspired from Lamine’s one, led the two designers to collaborate on kimonos then stamped with the logo '100% RECYCLED'.
To accompany the models, Lamine Badian Kouyaté and Rodrigo Martinez wished to invite their friends and inspirations to sneak into the collection, very eager as well to cross the crosswalk and express their message. Thus, the muses Flavia Coehlo, Rokhaya Diallo, Farida Rahouadj, Alice Diop or Assa Traoré continue to express their support to XULY.Bët and come to offer their character to this eclectic panorama. As for the launch campaign, it was done organically, following a meeting with Marpessa Hennink, whose career no longer needs to be mentioned. Iconic, radiant and true to herself, her natural strength immediately charmed Lamine Kouyaté and Rodrigo Martinez who wanted to surprise by putting her at the heart of the FW23-24 collection.
To achieve it, they asked Ismaël Moumin and Tati Cotliar to carry out this photo project that reveals a never-seen before Marpessa.
All this creation and movement brings XULY.Bët on a new launch pad, always funkier, more engaged, and solid on its supports. The FW23-24 collection recycles, regenerates and regroups.
