It started with a dream of a chieftain woman on a horse, on top of fire mountains. From that, the beginning of the color palette was extracted. In this equine world, abstract swirls shape from Gabriela's sketches came through the debossing on the leather. They are a constant symbol in her sketching: a spiral accompanied by a three dot pattern. In the previous Fall Winter collection, these swirls were used as leather lace cutouts. For a collection that uses no logos, these personal signatures become the
Leather is artisanally crafted through a debossing technique on tailored jacket and coat forms; sharply punctuated with a double debossed metal button detail, wrapped and secured with a leather cord, devoid of traditional fastening details. Finishes on seams are whip-stitched and bound to complete and refine.
A deep v-neck dress carries an armour-like bodice in the same debossed leather, contrasted against a blouson sleeve detail and lean ankle-length skirt shape in silk cady.
A lean coat silhouette with proud lapel is formed in recycled cashmere; finished with a blanket-stitch detail and double wrap-debossed metal button. Lustrous heavy silk in champagne and black includes strong languid suiting and slip dresses with shoulder-tie wrap straps. The tie wraps can also be seen in the leather pieces.
Silk tailoring fabric reminiscent of a cashmere feel but lightens the wear. A dress in heavy silk fitted rib-knit bodice detail carries a split, blouson sleeve in heavy silk with a languid, bias-cut skirt.
Knit rib fluted sleeve shapes are further combined with leather creating lean minimal silhouettes in a modern tunic shape.
Abstract stitch detail interpretations from Gabriela’s sketches frame necklines and side panels to accent body shapes and fuller sleeve details in aloe linen and double face crepe.
A bold abstract print penned by Gabriela is emblazoned on silk grounds in voluminous flowing silhouettes.
Our knitwear lace dresses are hand crocheted in Italy in 100% cashmere. Every shape is made individually, then pieced together into the abstract swirl pattern, inspired by Gabriela's hand drawings.
We mixed the fisherman cable with multi-tweed in various shapes including an ankle length poncho.
We also worked on colorblock pattern in our knitwear, inspired by Gabriela's drawings, made with different pointelle stitches in each panel of color. The sweater is then needle-felted to the woven pleated skirt.
COLLABORATION WITH E.L.V. DENIM
We collaborated with E.L.V. Denim on upcycled post-consumer waste denim pieces. The denim is patched into abstract curved lines on flare-leg pants, contrasted with graphic shapes on shirts.
E.L.V. DENIM stands for East London Vintage Denim, as all products are designed and produced in East London. All their products are upcycled from unwanted post-consumer waste denim.
“Gabriela is an extremely generous collaborator. Only someone who truly believes in sharing their creations fearlessly can create honest beauty. I sketched the first outline of the jean the first time we spoke, inspired by the photo of her mother on her desk. Unbeknownst to me, this was reflected in the mood boards she later shared, and it was the basis of our collaboration. My mother is also a huge inspiration to me, and shared family values create an understanding. Our brands are governed by our personal beliefs, and when those values align, you know you are working towards the same goals” – Anna Foster, Founder and Creative Director of E.L.V. DENIM
“It takes the same amount of water that one person drinks in 13 years to make one pair of jeans. I feel that I have to ‘make good’ the environmental and social cost, and make this discarded material viable again.” – Anna Foster, Founder and Creative Director of E.L.V. DENIM
Each E.L.V. DENIM piece is unique
We updated our Striker sandals by crafting them from a natural cork platform with a contrast color flame embellishment. New colorways are added to our Virgil slides, which are set on natural rubber footbed created from the milk of Hevea trees. The mid-sole is made of natural cork.
This season we designed an equine inspired pull-on boot with a pointed, almond toe shape and a slanted Cuban heel and a pull on loop. For an artisanal touch we added our signature handmade herringbone stitching. A mix of seasonal color in intricate crochet work frames the pointy toe ballerina. The cotton crochet is handmade by artisans while our handmade signature blanket stitch unites the soft nappa leather upper with the textured front toe.
Crafted from Italian premium leather, our Sneaker is a classic unisex laceup sneaker with a natural rubber plateau outsole. The rubber outsole is created from the milk of Hevea trees.
LEATHER GOODS AND ACCESSORIES
The horseshoe belt buckle that we named ‘Lucky Bill’ is inspired by a belt used by Gabriela's father-in-law.
We adopted this symbol and used it as a fastening on belts and handbags in our Resort ’23 collection.
We updated the Nina bag with a laser cut appliquéd with the abstract swirl pattern.
We introduced a boot bag with a shoe leather sole base which elevates up at the sides imitating the toe part of a boot, with a laser cut appliquéd abstracted swirl pattern.
A shoulder bag in calf with a belt buckle is detailed with inlaid enamel on the keeper and the tip, accompanied by enlarged bombe detail around the edge of the bag.
This season we introduced a leather corded key-ring necklace. The bold rose gold double split key ring is adjustable at the back with a push button gold ball.