Rhythmic densities, rich melodies and interludes are the hallmarks of the Fall-Winter 2023 collection, a distinctive blend of sounds, a balanced ensemble of the timeless and the contemporary.
Harmonies based on the clean lines, pure colors, and compact fabrics that emerged in the 1990s create neat and seductive arrangements that support the fluid interweaving of melodies and form the stylistic synthesis. The leitmotif of the British manor introduces the warmest and most enveloping notes, high-quality handcrafted tactile effects, extremely soft, fleecy surfaces and a countryside feeling. The refrain that balances the music is inspired by an idea of “academic charm”: regimental stripes and sartorial micro patterns, pleated miniskirts, tennis-style V-necks, ties, baseball caps, and socks worn with loafers and heels. Echoes of folk styling in a contemporary key and glamorous jazz riffs add refined chords to the season's soundscape.
The timbres, the iconic sounds of the brand’s identity, are the colors: winter whites and beiges evoke a sense of luxury and serenity. Blue, with its magnetic character and noble ancestry, adds a sophisticated variation to the base tones; as a "color-not-color," it is capable of gracefully refining the spirit of other hues or finetuning tone-on-tone effects.
OVERVIEW - Confidence Tunes
Influenced by the aesthetics of the end of the millennium, a quest for order and simplicity unleashes the true character of each element. The shapes are the most direct expression of the sound: demi-cropped sweaters and boxy jackets alternate with versatile and cozy coats with prestigious details such as knitted inserts, outdoor-style collars or soft shearling linings. Short Spencer jackets and puffy bombers are paired with midi skirts and relaxed trousers, spreading an idea of effortless tailoring that is contemporary and fun to wear. Contrasts mark a clear and defined rhythm. Matching sets with straight lines and monochrome or tone-ontone effects come to life with compact fabrics, twisted wool yarns and mirrored surfaces. In contrast, bouclé, mottled and brushed effects, quilted fabrics, airy mohair, alpaca yak fibers, super soft shearlings and fleecy materials evoke the dynamic and natural spirit of the countryside. Traditional patterns and details with academic charm balance femininity and freshness with subtly flared or pencil skirts, shimmering textures and smooth, flowing surfaces.
KNITWEAR - A Knit Soul
In keeping with the experimentation and cross-contamination of diverse and precious styles, knitwear incorporates a highly artisanal vibe that speaks to the soul of the brand and its distinctive fusion of craftsmanship, innovation and contemporary energy. As enveloping yarns intertwine, the value of time and a desire to protect is weaved into the garments at the heart of the collection.
Sophisticated embroidery, crochet effects and root-inspired prints create three-dimensional effects that contrast the strong lines of college stripes. Mid-weight knits make their comeback, renewing Shetland styles through a play on volumes and details. Fluffy and shiny fringes create unexpected references to urban folk culture. OPERA knitwear moves between the raw couture of macramé and the textural intrigue of alpine flowers forged from yarn, guaranteeing the uniqueness of each piece.
TROUSERS AND SKIRTS - Soft Feelings
Soft and comfortable cuts are fundamental to the character of the trousers, with subtle nods to tailoring that reinterprets the classic rules of elegance in a contemporary way. New straight volumes and slouchy fits with utility details complement the variety of soft silhouettes. The timeless aesthetic of five-pocket trousers is also offered in precious suede with a baggy silhouette, in satin with a glamorous aesthetic and in velvety délavé corduroy. Denim, complete with retro washes, updates the new range of fits.
When it comes to refining the feminine flair of everyday outfits, mini- and midi skirts play an important role. Alternatively, feminine splits give movement to ankle length, column or subtly flared skirts. With these updates, skirts become versatile elements of modern matching sets or, when paired with biker or aviator jackets and boots or loafers, chic and casual styling solutions.
EVENT DRESSING - Visual Melodies
The arrival of the evening is celebrated with a visual melody inspired by jazz club atmospheres, crossed by the timeless appeal of Panama white and black. Traditional men's tailoring fabrics, enriched with precious embroidery, are glamorously interpreted to create new tuxedos. The slip dress trend of the nineties is back for the most high-profile occasions. Dresses and skirts in satin, lamé and sparkling three-dimensional embroidery take center stage for Opening Night.
ACCESSORIES - Harmonic Tones
Accessories are an extension of the melody. The personality of each piece reflects the soul of the collection, thanks to special craftsmanship. College-style loafers and monili clips alternate with urban folk references diffused by shearling inserts on edges. The new trapezoidal heel shapes and tube silhouettes of the knee-high boots evoke the 1990s in a feminine and contemporary key, while the rural appeal of the lace-up boots is softened by shearling or soft knit inserts.