Ambush Presents Its New Autumn-Winter 2024 Collection

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What happens when the codes of preppy fashion collide with reality? What do new classics look like? Those were the questions that designer Yoon Ahn was considering when designing the AMBUSH^® Autumn-Winter '24 collection, returning to the theme of uniform and how to create an easier way to dress for a hectic lifestyle. The collection she arrived at celebrates the "unhinged preppy," as buttoned-up classics and sportswear icons are given a uniquely AMBUSH^® look. The resulting twisted take on luxury further refines what the AMBUSH^® uniform looks like.

This season, Yoon takes the house's oversized silhouettes and relaxes them, injecting some slouch into proceedings. The AMBUSH^® uniform of blue shirting and relaxed trousers for both men and women is layered with oversized, frayed knits in navy, maroon, and cream, adorned with huge varsity patches. With weathered collars and cuffs peeking out from under oversized tailoring, the look is one of easy authority and treasuring well-loved garments. It's as if past collections are unravelling before our eyes or treasures are being unearthed from the attic.

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These frayed cuffs, in mismatched red and baby blue, repeat on flight jackets in navy and maroon that come both cropped and oversized. Worn over khaki mini skirts or shorts, the look is collegiate and casual, a coat and big logo sweater thrown over a uniform, all the way down to white socks peeking out from heavy black loafers. Unexpected layering is a motif throughout, with skirts over loose trousers worn with vintage-style football jerseys.

With each collection, AMBUSH^® investigates its dual themes of rebellion and conformity. Following on from previous seasons' wild raves and forest bathing parties, now elements of restraint - schoolgirl and '50s chic - re-enter the vocabulary, reflecting the young energy of AMBUSH^® and a love of dressing up. White collars fastened with ribbons or necklaces of irregular-sized pearls and big teddy bear charms can be added to any look. Knee-length A-line coats have an element of mid-century Italian style for men and women. This elegant theme continues through shirts in pink and sky blue, with a geometric pattern that's either cutout or inlaid with maroon plaid.

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Collegiate designs from the collection are also mirrored in the jewelry, underpinning Yoon's constant desire to learn and discover. References to the classroom are found in functional lockets engraved with the text SOCIAL STUDIES and the marker pen cap charm necklace, an archival design newly revisited as our favorite permanent marker.

Plaid features across the collection for men, with a blue and white version featuring on a postman's jacket and shirt and an oversized yellow print as a lumberjack half-zip shirt. A knitted hoodie in cream and camel argyle, worn with a layered skirt and trousers, furthers the relaxed look of the collection. Elsewhere, sports references are writ large, in abstract takes on rugby shirts in black and grey stripes, outsize hockey jerseys, and rowing shirts in navy and green.

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This sporting vibe continues across the women's looks, from a striped tennis dress to a red metallic soccer jersey reborn as a mini dress, and track and field jerseys and shorts function as evening wear when worn with heels. After the sporting event, we return to the winner's podium, with bows erupting from the shoulders of shirts and down the fronts of blue shirt dresses. And argyle knits for women, in cream, are cropped and high-collared.

The tension between collegiate and professional, youth and adulthood, rave and reality carries on in the accessories. Shoes play with both delicacy and heft - for women, a chunky soled brogue with leather grommet detailing is a modern play on the school uniform look when worn with ribbed, knee-high socks. Meanwhile, pointed kitten heels in black and off-white are altogether more school mistress, adding mid-century elegance to looks. For men, a bulbous loafer adds weight to the wide-legged trousers or a '90s accent when worn with jeans.

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Yoon gives the heart bags a new, shiny crackled leather finish, giving texture to the AMBUSH^® favorite, alongside straps and chains, which means the bags can be carried on the shoulder or in hand. Card holders come in a heart-shaped style alongside a rectangular version embossed with the brand's AMBLEM, a futuristic take on the AMBUSH^® logo.

School's out at the AMBUSH® academy, as the assorted cast of characters throw their own clothes over their uniforms and head out into the world. Whether it's a mohawk balaclava or denim biker suit, there's always an element of the filmic or surreal in the collection, as Yoon's references from the worlds of pop culture, style, and anime collide. This season's mix of an elongated silhouette and shapes with preppy classics explores new territory for AMBUSH^®. A touch of chic, a nod to the fact we all have to grow up - someday, anyway. In the meanwhile, our clothes can be a beautiful collision of the rave and real, adolescence and aspiration.

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