Acne Studios Brand
Acne Studios Presents Its New Women’s Autumn Winter 2024 Collection
Luxferity, 06.03.2024
Show Space
Industrial ‘furniture bodies’. Staged in front of Chairs in Rubber (2001), two large-scale sculptures by Estonian artist Villu Jaanisoo, made from recycled tyres. The chairs – which have a craftiness, but are also a silhouette, a ‘body’ made from this industrial material – introduce a collection rooted in toughness and human form, leather and denim. The show is accompanied by an original score by electronic duo Giant Swan.
“I consider myself a sculptor in the most traditional sense. What interests me about working with tyres is the certain ‘inner resistance’ of this material: it requires a lot of physical as well as mental force to shape them; the resistance that exists in each tyre makes the surface of the sculpture alive, almost baroque. For my artworks, I have often used recycled materials, such as used car tyres or utilised fluorescent tubes. Environmental issues have been important in terms of employing these, but to me, what’s even more interesting is the trace that the former lives have left to the recycled things I use for making something new, also the idea of putting something familiar into a new context,” – says the artist Villu Jaanisoo.
Inspiration
A fast woman: sculpted and futuristic. Reimagining the codes of Acne Studios: denim and leather, with a raw, mechanical edge. Elevated femininity juxtaposed with a tough attitude, where archetypes of womenswear – fur (faux), ladylike handbags, classic black dress, denim and racer jackets are twisted.
“I’ve always been drawn to leather and denim. It’s the spirit of Acne Studios. One of our first collections in the late 90s was quite literally called ‘leather and denim’; two things that belong together. This season, we’ve created a powerful denim and leather woman. I’ve always related to clothing through subcultural movements. Denim and Leather can transcend genre and subcultures – from punk to S&M. When you want to feel tough you gravitate towards leather and denim; it’s like armour. It always feels right. An empowering safety zone. It’s a certain choice, a direction that’s part of a bigger denim movement,” says Jonny Johansson, creative director of Acne Studios.
Colour Palette
Severe and polished. Black and dark brown, a neutral palette with biker accents in flame orange, green and brown coming from prints.
Silhouette
Long and elongated. Playing with proportions – either stretched or shrunken, and nothing in between. An exploration into tailoring, very sharp and lean. Elsewhere, ‘Lampshade’ dresses stretched with mesh and boning, test the boundaries, almost like the underlay of a couture dress: taking the inside and putting it outside. Similarly, ribbed Henley jerseys, reminiscent of undergarments, are exposed and elevated to outer garments.
Fabrics
Second-skin leather feeling in skin-tight nappa. Elsewhere, moulded couture-like leather pieces accentuates the female form and creates a sculptural armour. Craftsmanship of the leather feels polished, drawing inspiration from how saddles are made. Denim is given a mechanical edge, with oil-coated, metallic, and rust-inspired treatments, rendered in elongated silhouettes. Icelandic sheepskin offers a cosiness, but savage in the styling: an effortless, almost raw feeling true to Acne Studios.
Prints
Signalling biker culture with prints Inspired by bandanas, but subverted and reimagined as elaborate angels and renaissance paintings in flame orange, yellow and brown.
Bags
The ‘Bowlina’ bowling takes centre stage, reworked this season with a metal plaque and in an oversized weekender, medium and micro sizes. The Multipocket ‘tool bag’ returns in new denim-coated leather treatments including pearlescent oyster and brown coating.
Accessories
This season’s jewellery has a chrome, car-finish feel and completes the look. Mirrored eyewear in black and rose gold, creates a mechanical chrome world, like it’s polished.
Footwear
Mesh boots and pumps add height, creating a towing silhouette to complete the look.
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