Torishéju Presents Her Debut Spring Summer 2024 Collection: ‘Fire On The Mountain’

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‘Fire on the Mountain’ is the debut collection by British-Nigerian-Brazilian designer TORISHÉJU.

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The title is taken from a canon of folk songs and games that warn of distant danger. For this collection, TORISHÉJU invokes it to examine beauty as misdirection — a spectacle that draws us in even as it
warps our reality.

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In the collection’s key pieces, TORISHÉJU layers and cascades her fabrics to create a sense of surreal, exaggerated luxury. From silk to cotton drill, the material gathers in ever-thickening volumes, eager to engulf both wearer and watcher.

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On the stand, TORISHÉJU has worked these raw elements into strange and sinuous shapes, inviting but unfamiliar. Imperfect forms creep into settled silhouettes, upsetting their symmetries, creating uncanny new surfaces and textures. Western suiting is distorted through heavyweight wool suit jackets, inverted to expose silk linings and padded shoulders, baring the bones of their construction. Elsewhere, these signature “horned” jackets extend into rippling evening gowns and halter aprons.

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A series of “wrap” skirts, tops, and gowns channels the casual elegance of Nigerian lappa garments: tied loosely at the hips or lower back, the pieces capture the slip-on ease of traditional Yorubaland dress while showcasing TORISHÉJU’s trademark density of detail.

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Shown together, the garments bring to life a personal fantasy at the core of the collection: a cast of unearthly courtiers, attending a ball thrown a century in the future. This is the dress code for that party, the guests themselves mirage-like in their warped habits, as if gathered on the threshold of a furnace.

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