Y/Project Presents Its New Spring-Summer 2024 Collection

Luxferity, 03.10.2023

Proposing open questions in place of finite answers, the SS 2024 collection designed by Glenn Martens is an expressive overture, embracing fundamental concepts of versatility and pragmatism to balance the constant experimentation of the Y/Project studio. A quest to elongate or disrupt the silhouette exists in harmony with layered exercises of structure and graphism, where the perception and preconception of a garment’s ancestry is distorted. Throughout, an inherent modularity allows for boundless transformation, resulting in sculptural gestures that appear to defy gravity. Amongst them, historical notions — of gothic architectures, genesis stories and patina — imbue the season with a touch of dark majesty.

Through foiling (on the outside) and wiring (on the inside), garments achieve whorls and peaks of fabric that stand off the body in dynamic, shifting forms. Recognisable archetypes are seemingly wrenched and wrought into abstraction, yet with the propensity to return to a classical proportion should the wearer so wish. Hook-and-eye closures and press studs create innumerable possibilities for the reconfiguration of style; the former bifurcating lingerie dresses and parkas, the latter used to superpose planes of two-tone denim or leather upon itself to create undulating, cowled workwear. Tension continues in halter neck tailoring suspended from fluid linings, and tiered dresses that dissolve into spiral hems of double-face satin and iridescent taffeta. Memory prints — scanned creased, as if burnt into cloth — echo the trompe l’oeil of knit gradient dresses that trace the body’s contours, reflecting the fragility and heightened emotions of the season in 2D.