Notions of tradition re-imagined and re-energised. Opposing sensibilities. Dries Van Noten womenswear Spring / Summer 24 develops a continued conversation, exploring the tension of contrasting ideas coming together to create something spontaneous and free-thinking.
The codes of sports attire applied in unusual ways. A rugby stripe motif recurring across asymmetric dresses, tennis scarves as knitted tops or reworked into the drape of a skirt. Graphic racer checks, contrast club blazers with grosgrain trims.
A feminine expression of men’s tailoring; the shirt - that staple of sartorial dress - warped and manipulated into new forms. Tuxedo jackets and double-breasted suits draped and oversized. Trench coats elongated, their gabardine applied to skirts and dresses.
The structure of formality alongside the ease of casual dress. Manipulation of silhouette; the frame lean and elongated. Jackets abbreviated, proportions either shrunken or exploded in form. An emphasised waist. Pagoda shoulders, rigorous in their precision.
Authenticity in fabrics; cotton chino, striped poplin, gabardine, Prince of Wales checks. Washed denim, that most everyday material, adapted into evening jackets or elegant coats. Simplicity in prints, motifs reduced to their purest forms; bi-colours, graphical patterns.
Jewels spilling in fractured clusters. Pearls rendered in surprising ways. Abundant embroidery in unlikely places; sequins on shoes, paillettes punctuate a raincoat. Stereotypes subtly disturbed: the feminine pump reworked with exaggerated pointed toes, sports laces and curving heels. Mediterranean one-toe sandals with socks. The plainness of men’s Oxfords.
A soundtrack of female voices sharing intimate experiences. Dries Van Noten womenswear explores different stories and opposing sentiments coming together to find a common language.
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