Atlein Presents Its New Spring Summer 2024 Collection
Luxferity, 02.10.2023
Following a growing number of requests from celebrities, Antonin Tron began thinking about the iconography of the silver screen, and the characters in his memory that best represent the construction of this feminine mythology.
The Spring Summer 2024 ATLEIN collection explores the relationship between classic glamour and cinema – how to filter these powerful images of ultra-femininity to fit in our present moment.
How are the old codes influencing the new ones? How do they shape our perception of dressing? Arletty, a key reference to Azzedine Alaïa and one of the original icons of French cinema, is seen dressing and undressing in Marcel Carné’s movie Hôtel du Nord. Showing while not showing, she evokes a fearless femininity while expressing an old-world relationship to intimacy, forever changed in the era of social media.
American costume designer Adrian transformed Hollywood actresses into movie stars by injecting high fashion in the wardrobe departments – cementing an idea of glamour that persists today.
For the new collection, Antonin re-worked the forever symbols and clichés of sensuality, seduction, the feminine. In this process, traditional lace becomes stretch lace jacquard and classic pleating a recycled fluid elastic jersey. Lingerie-like constructions lose any type of boning and rigidity, and couture-inspired designs are built without zips, bustiers, linings - meant to be worn with ease and to fit all body shapes through stretch.
Construction is at the heart of Antonin’s work. Fabrics are pulled, draped, ruched, knotted, molded around the body.
There is a cinematic quality to the collection: a nocturnal feel, a moody palette with new shades of copper, deep brown and moss green.
Timeless materials like silk satin, silk chiffon and stretch lace are introduced, next to a series of new light jerseys. First presented for Spring Summer 2023, the special recycled pleated jersey is shown in new colorways. Antonin continues the exploration of vegan alternatives to leather with special jerseys coated to render the effect of nappa and suede.
