Schiaparelli Brand
Schiaparelli Presents Its New Spring Summer 2024 Collection: An Everyday Sensation
Luxferity, 29.09.2023
In her private album, the actress Marisa Berenson describes a pivotal moment in the early career of her grandmother Elsa Schiaparelli. It was 1927, and Elsa was admiring a friend’s sweater. Upon learning it was made by some Armenian knitters, she tracked them down and commissioned a sweater of her own, which, Berenson writes, “she specified should look like the primitive drawing of a child in prehistoric times.” That piece, with its deliberately imperfect trompe l’oeil bow and its surrealist, offbeat humor, was an immediate sensation, and Elsa’s first signature hit.
It also formed the beginning of what would be Elsa’s ethos for her maison: Begin with an everyday garment—in this case, a humble wool sweater—but make it a sensation. In Elsa’s hands, that workaday, utilitarian item became something to be discussed, something to be desired, something to provoke. From there, she’d go on to create iconic, era-defining pieces featuring skeletons, lobsters, insects and circus animals. But her philosophy never changed: Take something familiar. Now make it unfamiliar.
From head to golden toes, Schiaparelli ready to wear is an exercise in making the everyday come to more vivid, more surprising life. I have found that the more familiar the item—a crisp white shirt, a fluid trench, a black smoking blazer—the more joyful it is to rediscover it anew when combined with the house codes, which often reveal themselves as secrets. Every button on the sleeves is a piece of bijoux, echoing house iconography past and present: the keyhole, the padlock, the eye, the nipple, the dove. The measuring tape motif—one that Elsa debuted twined around a bust-shaped perfume bottle for her perfume “Shocking”—now trims the edges of both everyday tailored jackets and epic going-out blouses alike.
The humor inherent in every part of our heritage speaks most loudly in our two favorite bags. First, there’s our beloved Visage purse, which I call the Mrs. Potatohead of the Place Vendôme. (I can’t tell you how many stories I’ve heard of women being stopped on the street or in airports or restaurants by people wanting to know about this bag.) Then there’s our new Schiap bag, an almost impossible-to-make sac of trapunto leather: pillowy Napa stitched in a repetition of measuring tapes, and accented with our gold hammered keyhole.
You see that humor and heritage in our footwear as well. Our keyhole adorns the toes of our heel, and our gold toes—a new classic—caps our new shoe, inspired by an all-American sports trainer. It’s the fantasy of couture made for the street.
That trainer is especially meaningful to me because it’s symbolic of who I am: an embrace of my Americanness in a context of profound Frenchness. Ready to wear is a combination of both: the ease of being an American; the rigor of French chic. This ready to wear collection is about that duality. A reduced palette of whites and ecrus contrasts with the more ornate Schiap blacks and golds.
As we have to understand today, two things can be true at once. And so we have Schiaparelli ready to wear. Is it for the everyday and should it be, dare I say, “easy”? Yes. But does it also need to cause a sensation, to inspire someone to walk across a room, to be an extraordinary echo of some of our best work in the couture? Yes. Elsa did it first. We are doing it all over again.
Daniel Roseberry
Looks
- Look 1
Plunging neckline jacket in hourglass-shaped black wool twill with sharp shoulders and marked waist. It is trimmed with the Maison’s signature Measuring Tape at the collar. Asymmetrical earrings with a golden brass bean with cultured pearls and rhinestone piercing on one side, and an abstract teardrop in textured golden copper on the other. Schiap baguette in patent black leather adorned with two signature Keyhole clasps in hammered golden brass. Black suede strap pumps adorned with the signature trompe-l’oeil Toe detail in black and golden nails.
- Look 2
Oversized black raffia-embroidered spiky collar inspired by an archival piece designed by Elsa Schiaparelli. Extra-wide black wool twill pants with bijoux-buttons on the back pockets. Pair of carmine enamel and hammered golden brass earrings in the shape of mouths adorned with a rhinestone piercing. Mules in black patent leather revealing the Toes through a signature Keyhole.
- Look 3
Shoulder-length cropped jacket in black stretch cotton twill adorned with gold-thread embroideries inspired by the Maison’s archives, and bijoux buttons at the bottom of the sleeves. Fitted black fine-knit skirt adorned with Schiaparelli anatomical “lucky charms” at the hem, worn partially twisted over high-waisted black panties adorned with the signature golden Keyhole. Pair of asymmetrical earrings featuring textured abstract crescents in gilded copper. Schiap bag in black patent leather adorned with the signature hammered-golden brass Padlock clasp. Mules in black patent leather revealing the Toes through a signature Keyhole.
- Look 4
Sleeveless stand-up collar sweater in fine ecru knit inlaid with a signature trompe-l’oeil skeleton in crochet and tonal beading. It is worn with a draped low-rise sarong skirt in compact white jersey tied at the front. Asymmetrical earrings featuring textured abstract teardrops in gilded copper. Bull charms in gilded metal. Sculptural handmade bracelet in gilded ceramic. Pierced mouth clutch in gilded brass and rhinestones. Mules in wood-print patent leather revealing the Toes through a signature Keyhole.
- Look 5
Evening pants in extra-wide black wool twill enhanced with a tonal faille train belt tied at the back. Black satin brassiere wrapped around the neck and held in place by a textured anatomical jewel in hammered golden brass. Sculptural handmade cuff bracelet in gilded ceramic. Black velvet mules adorned with signature golden trompe-l’oeil Toes.
- Look 6
Light-blue cady suit jacket adorned with a signature hammered gold brass Padlock clasp on the front and jeweled buttons on the bottom sleeves. It is worn over a matching draped low-rise sarong skirt in matching light-blue cady tied at the front. A pair of enamel and gilded brass earrings featuring an eye and enameled, rhinestone and pearl petals. Long necklace worn as a bib, featuring rhinestone eyes and commas, as well as a pair of enameled eyes with multiple multicolored rhinestones. Ecru canvas sneakers adorned with signature trompe-l’oeil golden Toes.
- Look 7
Bias-cut long dress in black satin with asymmetrical balloon sleeves in tonal washed faille adorned with a gold-metal fish brooch. Iconic extra-wide pants in black wool twill. Pair of gold-plated crab claw earrings. Necklace of textured abstract teardrops in gilded brass. Mules in ecru patent leather revealing the Toes through a signature Keyhole.
- Look 8
Strapless top with impossible V neckline, entirely embroidered with black sequins and embellished with a tonal raffia sea ursin brooch. Nude satin skirt inspired by the Maison’s signature Measuring Tape in an “undone” version, embellished with tonal beaded Measuring Tape embroidery running along the hem. Nude leather pumps adorned with the signature trompe-l’oeil Toe detail in tonal.
- Look 9
Blush fine-knit ensemble consisting of a fitted cardigan adorned with anatomical Schiaparelli “lucky charms” at the hem and a matching skirt, the high part of which is flipped over high-waisted white compact jersey panties adorned with the signature golden Keyhole. Asymmetrical earrings molded from orange peel in gilded metal and adorned with cultured pearls. Molded leather torso bag embellished with fancy embroidery in resin, rhinestones, sequins and leather, inspired by the contents of a woman’s handbag. Mules in ecru patent leather revealing the Toes through a signature Keyhole.
- Look 10
Wool twill jacket with exaggerated shawl collar decorated with the signature hammered golden brass Padlock and fancy embroidery inspired by the contents of a woman’s leather bag in sequins, pearls, enamel, rhinestones and resin. It is paired with highwaisted white compact jersey panties adorned with the Maison’s signature golden Keyhole. Schiap bag in color-block patent leather adorned with the signature Keyhole clasp in hammered golden brass. Black patent leather pumps adorned with signature tonal trompe-l’oeil Toes.
- Look 11
Off-shoulder black jersey top draped around the iconic Keyhole. It is worn over a matching draped low-cut sarong skirt in compact black jersey tied at the front. Asymmetrical earrings with a gilded brass bean enhanced with cultured pearls and rhinestone piercing on one side, and an earring molded from gilded metal orange peel and adorned with a cultured pearl on the other. Ecru canvas sneakers with signature trompe-l’oeil golden Toes.
- Look 12
Bi-material strapless dress with impossible V neckline in black velvet and draped skirt in tonal black satin. Asymmetrical earrings featuring an anatomical earring with a signature eye in enamel, rhinestones and hammered gold-plated brass on one side, and a shower of abstract teardrops in textured gold-plated copper on the other. Handmade lobster necklace in gilded ceramic. Black patent leather mules openworked in the shape of our signature Keyhole on the front.
- Look 13
Off-shoulders white jersey dress draped around the iconic Keyhole. It is worn with an unstructured fringed bolero in ecru knit. Pair of gilded copper abstract statue eye earrings. Pierced mouth clutch in gilded brass and rhinestones. Platform boots in close-fitting nappa leather adorned with signature golden trompe-l’oeil Toes on the front.
- Look 14
Tuxedo shirt in ecru silk cotton poplin adorned with signature Keyhole buttons on the collar and cuffs. It is tucked into a long, fully gathered skirt in ecru jersey decorated with tonal 3D lobster embroidery on the front. Ecru leather pumps adorned with the signature trompe-l’oeil Toe tonal detail.
- Look 15
Iconic Measuring Tape short jacket in sand-pressed tweed with frayed edge and asymmetrical collar embellished with gold bijoux buttons at mid-front and bottom of sleeve. On the jacket is pinned a double brooch with chain representing an eye and mouth in hammered golden brass and rhinestones. Extra-wide low-rise cowboy-inspired pants in Japanese raw denim with tonal front inserts. It is worn over high-waisted white compact jersey knickers adorned with the signature gold Keyhole. Black leather boots adorned with signature golden trompe-l’oeil Toes.
- Look 16
Raw Japanese denim coat with exaggerated asymmetrical shawl collar and flared cuffs. It is embellished with contrasting white topstitching and signature golden Keyhole buttons in the middle and at the bottom of the sleeves. It is paired with a denim spiral skirt used on both sides, enhanced with denim appliqués to create a textured play of relief. Golden brass bean earring adorned with cultured pearls and a rhinestone piercing.
Cuff bracelet featuring an abstract “beautiful disaster” with a signature openwork Keyhole in gilded copper and rhinestones. Ecru canvas sneakers adorned with signature trompe-l’oeil golden Toes.
- Look 17
Fluid ruffled jacket in tree bark-effect double gauze enhanced by an exaggerated shawl collar trimmed with a signature Measuring Tape embroidery in golden thread. Its is paired with a black and nude mesh spindle. Pair of asymmetrical earrings molded from orange peel in gilded metal and adorned with cultured pearls. Pair of hybrid hammered gilded metal aviator glasses with retractable top. Mouth ring with rhinestones piercing in hammered gold-plated brass. Pierced nose trompe-l’oeil wallet in color-block calf leather. Mules in black patent leather revealing the Toes through a signature Keyhole.
- Look 18
Exaggerated ruffled blouse in white ramie fabric adorned with contrasting black Measuring Tape embroidery. Pair of sculptural eyeglasses with trompe-l’oeil eyebrows in gold-plated metal. Cuff bracelet featuring an abstract “beautiful disaster” openworke with our signature Keyhole in gilded copper and rhinestones. Asymmetrical earrings featuring textured abstract crescents in gilded copper. Triple Face bag in alligator leather painted with 24-carat gold leaf between the scales. Mules in black patent leather revealing the Toes through a signature Keyhole.
- Look 19
Cape in ecru tree bark-effect double gauze enhanced by contrasting black leather trim, ear jewel cufflinks and several piped pockets on the front. It is held at the collar by a gusset chain and signature anatomical pieces in hammered enamel and gold-plated brass. Underneath, elasticized boyfit pants in ecru textured cotton adorned with gold bijoux buttons on the pockets and back. Schiap clutch in contrasting ecru and gold leather. Choker necklace featuring tears and eyes in enamel, rhinestones, cultured pearls and hammered golden brass. Ecru leather pumps adorned with the signature tonal trompe-l’oeil Toe detail.
- Look 20
Short jacket in ecru double gauze with exaggerated shawl collar embroidered with the Maison’s signature Measuring Tape and tied at the waist. Worn over ecru textured cotton Bermuda shorts embellished with bijoux-buttons on the back pockets. A pair of asymmetrical earrings in enamel, gilded brass and cultured pearls depicting doves, the Maison’s emblematic bird. Sculptural handmade cuff bracelet in gilded ceramic. Mules in ecru patent leather revealing the Toes through a signature Keyhole.
- Look 21
Iconic Measuring tailored jacket in a double-breasted, sleeveless version in white linen with blue stripes, embellished with fancy embroidery in sequins, leather, rhinestones etc. and bijoux-buttons in enamel and gold brass on the front. Matching bermuda shorts in white linen and blue stripes. The suit is worn over a raw denim sleeveless cardigan.Asymmetrical earrings in enamel, gilded brass and cultured pearls depicting doves, the Maison’s emblematic bird. Schiap clutch in color-block patent leather adorned with the signature Keyhole clasp in hammered golden brass. Ecru canvas sneakers adorned with signature trompe-l’oeil golden Toes.
- Look 22
Body-conscious dress in coral-red stretch knit embroidered with hammered gold brass nipple bijoux buttons and openwork at the back. It is worn with an unstructured fringed bolero in ecru knit. Knot earrings in golden hammered brass. Ecru canvas sneakers adorned with signature trompe-l’oeil golden Toes.
- Look 23
Thick white cotton denim ensemble featuring cowboy-inspired low-rise wide-leg pants with applied front yokes, a drop-shoulder denim jacket embellished with tonal topstitching and gold bijoux-buttons, and a matching sleeveless cardigan. Attached to the pants pocket, a “lucky charms” bracelet with multiple enameled, rhinestoned and beaded anatomical charms. Asymmetrical earrings featuring textured abstract crescents in gilded copper. Mules in black patent leather revealing the Toes through a signature Keyhole.
- Look 24
Iconic Measuring Tape jacket in navy blue linen with white stripes decorated with our signature Measuring Tape embroidery in white beads on the collar, sleeve and back and a signature anatomical ear button on the front. Matching extra-wide pants adorned with gold jeweled buttons on waistband and back pockets. Asymmetrical earrings with an abstract crescent on one side and an abstract teardrop on the other in textured gold-plated copper. Schiap bag in ecru leather adorned with the signature Keyhole clasp in hammered gilded brass and with a hammered gilded brass Gemini astro charm. Platform sandals sculpted in trompe-l’oeil Toes enhanced with A signature golden Measuring Tape strap.
- Look 25
Strapless top with impossible V neckline in navy-blue linen with white stripes, embellished with lacing detail and gold-metal eyelets on the back.cMatching extra-large pants in navy linen with white stripes adorned with gold-plated brass bijoux-buttons on the waistband and back pockets. Asymmetrical earrings featuring textured abstract crescents in gilded copper. Leather belt adorned with the Maison’ signature Keyhole clasp in hammered gold-plated brass. Gold-plated metal fish cuff bracelet. Baguette Schiap bag in contrasting ecru and gold leather. Wood-print patent leather mules openworked in the shape of our signature Keyhole on the front.
- Look 26
Off-white and navy blue cotton pique marinière set featuring a lightweight jacket with exaggerated shawl collar adorned with signature Keyhole buttons, and men’s boxer short-inspired mini-shorts with trompe-l’oeil front placket adorned with a Keyhole button at the waist. Abstract statue eye earrings in gilded copper. Spiral ribbon necklace in gilded copper. Ecru canvas sneakers adorned with signature trompe-l’oeil golden Toes.
- Look 27
Black leather bodysuit with inlaid tonal trompe-l’oeil skeleton. Asymmetrical earrings featuring textured abstract teardrops in gilded copper. Handmade gold ceramic crab necklace. Strap pumps in black suede adorned with the signature trompe-l’oeil Toe detail in black and golden nails.
- Look 28
Metallic ribbed knit maxi dress inlaid with tonal trompe-l’oeil breasts. Gilded laminated calf leather lock minaudière. Sculptural handmade cuff in gilded ceramic. Abstract teardrop earring in textured gold-plated copper. Black suede strap pumps adorned with signature trompe-l’oeil Toe detail in black and silver nails.
- Look 29
Off-the-shoulders mini-dress in black bonded velvet, held in place by a choker necklace with large links in enamel, rhinestones and gilded brass representing feathers and the Maison’s signature eye. Mules in black patent leather revealing the Toes through a signature Keyhole.
- Look 30
Backless bodysuit entirely embroidered with fish-inspired sequins patterns. Knot earrings in hammered golden brass. Pair of glasses with trompe-l’oeil eyelashes in gilded metal. Mules in wood-print patent leather revealing the Toes through a signature Keyhole.
- Look 31
Ecru and navy blue striped linen cardigan with navy leather button placket sealed with the signature golden Measuring Tape and enhanced with signature gilded metal Keyhole snaps. It is worn open over a nude satin bra adorned with the signature hammered golden brass Keyhole, and with a black cady skirt decorated with a hand-painted fish motif on the front, and ruffles on the back. Asymmetrical earrings with an anatomical earring with a signature eye in enamel, rhinestones and hammered gold-plated brass on one side, and an abstract teardrop in textured gold-plated copper on the other. Mules in ecru patent leather revealing the Toes through a signature Keyhole.
- Look 32
Fluid trench coat in blush satin and ecru leather belt embellished with bijoux buttons and hammered golden brass belt buckle. Matching blush satin strapless dress accented with tonal pleated satin conical breasts adorned with gold metal and rhinestone piercings. Mono snail earring in gilded copper with rhinestone curtain and cultured pearls. Schiap clutch in cream leather. Mules in ecru patent leather revealing the Toes through a signature Keyhole.
- Look 33
Black draped jersey maxi dress embellished with tonal cadi stand-up collar and bib, golden brass bijoux buttons at collar and cuffs and ruffled cuffs. Fancy fish skeleton wooden necklace. Mules in black patent leather revealing the Toes through a signature Keyhole.
- Look 34
A corsetry-inspired thin-strap top in optical white cotton canvas with frayed edges, enhanced by a zippered Toe on the front and gold metal eyelet lacing on the back. It is worn over extra-wide pants in optical white heavy cotton, embellished with jewel buttons on the waistband and back pockets and a Schiaparelli white leather patch on the back. Asymmetrical earrings featuring textured abstract teardrops in gilded copper.
Cuff bracelet featuring abstract statue eyes in gilded copper. Black leather bag molded in the shape of a torso. Cotton slippers embellished with signature rhinestones anatomy embroideries and golden trompe-l’oeil Toes.
- Look 35
Off-the-shoulder dress in ecru stretch-canvas cotton with frayed edges, held in place by a hammered golden choker, enamel and rhinestones featuring the Maison’s signature eye. Fancy embroideries inspired by the contents of a woman’s leather bag in sequins, pearls, enamel, rhinestones and resin are applied to the dress. Nose pierced trompe-l’oeil wallet in red lizard leather. Pair of ecru canvas sneakers adorned with signature golden trompe-l’oeil Toes. Black suede strap pumps adorned with the signature trompe-l’oeil Toe detail in black and golden nails.
- Look 36
Body-conscious strapless dress in red stretch tulle entirely embroidered with sequins and tonal glittering faux nails. Nude leather pumps adorned with signature tonal trompe-l’oeil Toe detail.
