Schiaparelli Presents Its First Ready-To-Wear Fall-Winter 2023/24 Collection: Now And Forever

A wardrobe, yes. But a Schiaparelli wardrobe.

Of all Elsa Schiaparelli’s legacies, her most enduring might have been her marriage of art and fashion. Elsa became famous for her couture, but her career debut was those thengroundbreaking trompe l’oeil knits. Pure sportswear, they were an aggressive rebuke of everything frilly and flouncy, knitwear that was easy to slip on—and off (you can think of them as the athleisure wear of their age). Those early sweaters were among the first of her many “viral” moments over the course of her brief but influential career. Even now, decades later, her work’s now-signature hallmarks—the codes, we’d call them today: the keyhole icon, the anatomical references, the measuring tape details—still feel eerily relevant. The house had always been renowned not only for its shapes or symbols, but because, above all, its clothes didn’t look like anything else out there. (As Elsa famously said, “No one knows how to say ‘Schiaparelli,’ but everyone knows what it means.”) One of the challenges of making clothes now, in an age of rampant branding, is honoring Elsa’s codes while, at the same time, not reducing them to logos. Like Elsa, our focus is on clothes: wardrobe staples that help a woman feel more like herself. In this, we look again to Elsa, whose most resplendent fantasies were always countered with simple, honest silhouettes. The result was a look whose chic rose not from gimmicks but from something heartfelt and sincere.

This season marks our first ready-to-wear runway show: a long-planned and critical step in our ongoing revival of Elsa’s house. Our mission this season was straightforward—to present an entire wardrobe, complete with everything from crisp white poplin shirts to short velvet cocktail dress, and to infuse these classics with Schiaparelli’s trademark wit, irreverence, and drama.

It also represents a kind of response to our global clientele, who’ve made it clear that they want something powerful and distinctive from us. “Quiet” doesn’t work for our women. What they want instead are the pieces that already have become indelibly associated with the house: our sharp tailoring, graphic knitwear, subversive denim, and supple leather, all embellished with our trompe l’oeil ornaments and gold hardware. This season, I wanted to play with these new signatures by combining them with traditionally masculine fabrics and tonal shades (winter whites, rich browns).

We also know that our accessories are key—we can’t keep our classic Face Bag in stock—and this season, we’ve added a new style, The Schiap, our trapunto baguette, which alludes to the design of the house’s groundbreaking 1937 fragrance, Shocking. For The Schiap, I wanted to riff on a classic profile rather than chase a trend; simple feels perfect to me right now. As always, all our bags are detailed with hammered brass hardware coated in our unique 24k gold finish, and as always, the chains on our bags are handmade, one link at a time.

You’ll also see we’re expanding our shoe offerings, building on the success of our golden toes—which you’ll soon see adorning leather boots and rubber wellies, too—with our keyhole plaque, here featured in velvet and patent, and on a knee-high stretch leather boot that complements this season’s cropped trouser.

And then there’s the bijoux, which is essential to the Maison’s identity. This season we have gilded lilies and oyster shells, giant keyhole doorknocker earrings, and my new favorites, oversized hammered-gold cuffs with inlaid shearling and enamel padlocks. In addition, we have our anatomy pieces, which will always be particularly special to me, as they remind us that nothing is as eternal or universal as the human body: It’s the one thing we know for certain we all have in common, and a source of inspiration for us all. So often in this town (and in this industry), the product becomes less creative the higher you go. But Elsa gives us permission—and a road map—to imagine what it means to be fearlessly chic, to trust our instincts. And so that’s what this collection is about—
clothes and accessories that exist at that impossible crossroads, between what’s forever stylish…and what’s perfectly of its moment.

Daniel Roseberry

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• Look 1
  

Shawl-collar coat buttoned up in black compact wool with dove-inspired exaggeratedly rounded sleeves decorated with the season’s mix of enamel and gold-tone brass buttons on the right side. Chunky curb chain chocker necklace in white enamel and golden brass. Bi-material boots in off-white stretch and patent leather decorated with the Maison’s signature keyhole detail in tonal enamel.

• Look 2
  

Bodysuit in black stretch jersey with an asymmetrical neckline in the back and leather cuffs adorned with decorative jewel buttons in enamel and golden brass. It is worn with fitted cropped trousers in black jersey and a black calfskin belt decorated with a navel detail in the center. Black felt petal hat. Bi-material boots in black stretch and patent leather decorated with the Maison’s signature keyhole detail in tonal enamel.

• Look 3
  

Oversized parka in technical satin padded with feathers with extreme swelling adorned with signature anatomy golden hammered brass buttons. It is worn open over a quilted cardigan jacket trimmed with a strip of leather enhanced with the season’s mix of enamel and brass buttons. Balaclava in black cashmere decorated with golden brass rivets.
Hammered golden brass sunglasses with perforations adorned with keyhole detail on the temples. Serrure quilted lambskin handbag with golden brass jewelry decoration and signature keyhole clasp. Trompe l’oeil black nappa leather ankle boots with golden brass toes decorations.

• Look 4
  

Bib in black goat hair worn over an A-line quilted skirt in black stretch satin trimmed with leather. Mini Secret bag in goatskin with padlock closure. Bi-material boots in black stretch and patent leather decorated with the Maison’s signature keyhole detail in tonal enamel.

• Look 5
  

Fitted bi-material tailored jacket with incorporated basque, enhanced with a lapel collar and scalloped pockets in black velvet and jewel keyhole buttons in enamel and golden
brass and the season’s buttons mix at the bottom of the sleeves. It is paired with an extra-wide high-waisted workwear-inspired trousers with matching patches and tonal patched pockets adorned with a mix of signature anatomy buttons in hammered golden brass. Long gloves in black suede calfskin decorated with the signature keyhole detail and nails painted in golden brass. Trompe l’oeil black nappa leather ankle boots with golden brass toes decorations.

• Look 6
  

Bi-material coat with oversized collar in ecru leather and black straight-haired lamb shearling. It is entirely encrusted with designs made by Daniel Roseberry exclusively for the collection. Pair of enamel and gilt brass earrings shaped like the signature keyhole. New three-dimensional “Face” bag in red calfskin encrusted with golden brass and enamel jewels that form a trompe-l’oeil face. Bi-material boots in black stretch and patent leather decorated with the Maison’s signature keyhole detail in tonal enamel.

• Look 7
  

Tailored suit in black calfskin, consisting of a fitted jacket trimmed with the Maison’s signature golden brass jewel measuring tape and workwear-inspired high-waisted cropped and extra-wide trousers. It is worn over a shirt and with a matching patent calfskin tie. New “Schiap” bag in black lambskin with embossed measuring tape motif and signature keyhole clasp and hand-assembled hammered golden brass chain. Bimaterial boots in off-white stretch and patent leather decorated with the Maison’s signature keyhole detail in tonal enamel.

• Look 8
  

Bi-material cape coat in Astrakhan effect faux fur with smooth shearling collar. Pair of mouth-shaped striated enamel and golden brass earrings. Bi-material boots in black stretch and patent leather decorated with the Maison’s signature keyhole detail in tonal enamel.

• Look 9
  

Flowing draped long dress in black jersey with signature keyhole opening in the center. Matching pair of black jersey gloves. Pair of mirror, gilded brass and enamel earrings inspired by a keyhole button from the collection and a pierced ear. Trompe l’oeil black nappa leather ankle boots with golden brass toes decorations.

• Look 10
  

Tailoring ensemble consisting of an off-shoulder tailored jacket in shimmering black velvet trimmed with tonal goat hair and adorned with hammered golden brass eye buttons and matching high-waisted fitted pants. Pair of hammered golden brass eye earrings. Black velvet pumps decorated with the Maison’s signature keyhole detail.

• Look 11
  

Long fitted double-breasted coat in black hairy cashmere trimmed with tonal measuring tape and this season’s mix of enamel and golden brass buttons. Shiny brass intertwined metal bands. Secret micro-bag in calfskin and hammered golden brass keyhole. Pair of black velvet pumps decorated with the Maison’s signature keyhole detail.

• Look 12
  

Tuxedo ensemble in bonded black velvet consisting of a waisted jacket adorned with tonal double-faille satin shawl collar and pockets and matching high-waisted trousers.
The jacket is decorated with signature golden brass and enamel buttons and a golden brass chain detail on the back. New keyhole clutch in black velvet. Trompe l’oeil ankle boots in black nappa leather with golden brass toe decoration.

• Look 13
  

Knitted waisted coat in fringed black velvet chenille held in place by a signature keyhole button in enamel and gilded brass. The fringes of the sleeves are embroidered with golden beads. New “Schiap” bag in ecru lambskin with embossed measuring tape motif and signature keyhole clasp and hand-assembled hammered golden brass chain. Bi-material boots in off-white stretch and patent leather decorated with the Maison’s signature keyhole detail.

• Look 14
  

Iconic trench coat with a wide collar in wool and silk crepe embroidered with the Maison’s signature jewel measuring tape and golden gilt brass jewel buttons on the side and at the bottom of the sleeves worn with a black goat hair overcoat. Trompe l’oeil black nappa leather ankle boots with golden brass toes decorations.

• Look 15
  

Bustier top with incorporated basque and plunging neckline in black satin encrusted with tonal crested breasts. Long asymmetrical high-waisted skirt with train in black satin, adorned with signature golden brass keyhole buttons along the left side. Pair of rhinestone cuff bracelets with eye detail in gold-tone brass and enamel. Velvet pumps decorated with the Maison’s signature keyhole detail in gilded brass.

• Look 16
  

Long bustier dress in black crepe with pointed edges and asymmetric draping. “Oyster” necklace in gold-tone hammered brass with a decorative “S” clasp and matching earrings. Card holder in calfskin and eye jewel in enamel and gilded brass. Trompe-l’oeil black velvet mules with golden brass toes decorations.

• Look 17
  

Japanese raw denim ensemble consisting of a short jacket with chest pockets and rounded shoulders and extra-wide high-waisted cowboy pants. The set is decorated with a row of signature jewelry buttons in hammered golden brass, tobacco-colored stitching and an embroidered “Schiaparelli” patch on the right back pocket of the pants. Pair of cuff bracelets in hammered golden brass and enamel. Trompe-l’oeil ankle boots in black nappa with golden brass toes decorations.

• Look 18
  

Short coat with shawl collar and dove-inspired exaggeratedly rounded sleeves in brown curly whool. It is entirely decorated with stencil designs made by Daniel Roseberry exclusively for the collection. Red enamel pierced lip earrings in gilt brass. Black velvet pumps decorated with the signature keyhole detail in golden brass.

• Look 19
  

Natural Japanese denim set consisting of a low-cut buttoned shirt with oversized gathered sleeves and a matching pleated mini-skirt. Pair of cuff bracelets in striated brass
with the effigy of the Maison’s signature ear and keyhole codes. New three-dimensional Face bag in black calfskin decorated with jewels in enamel and hammered golden brass forming a trompe-l’oeil face. Black patent pumps decorated with the signature keyhole detail in golden brass.

• Look 20
  

Long double-buttoned coat with incorporated basque in hand-painted vanilla curly wool. It is entirely decorated with stencil designs made by Daniel Roseberry exclusively for the collection and embellished with a lace-up detail on the back of the season’s mix of golden brass buttons at the bottom of the sleeves. Secret micro bag in lambskin with signature keyhole closure. Bi-material and two-tone boots in off-white stretch leather and black patent leather decorated with the signature keyhole detail of the Maison.

• Look 21
  

Short coat with shawl collar and dove-inspired exaggeratedly rounded sleeves entirely embroidered with faux fur leopard fringes. Pair of eye earrings in enamel and golden hammered brass. Bi-material boots in stretch leather and black patent decorated with the Maison’s signature keyhole detail in tonal enamel.

• Look 22
  

Long fitted dress with gathered sleeves and stand-up collar in brown jersey. It is embellished with a row of signature keyhole buttons in golden brass and draped at the hips. Pair of matching keyhole shaped enamel mirror earrings. New three-dimensional “Face” bag in jade calfskin decorated with jewels in enamel and hammered golden brass forming a trompe-l’oeil face.

• Look 23
  

Fire-colored bonded velvet tailored suit consisting of a fitted buttoned collarless jacket with pockets decorated with nipple buttons and the season’s mix of golden brass buttons and a matching buttoned pencil skirt with a split in the middle. Pair of brown beaver fur mittens. Mini handbag in lizard leather with trompe l’oeil face jewelry. Black velvet pumps decorated with the Maison’s signature keyhole detail in golden brass.

• Look 24
  

Sheath off-shoulder and backless dress in fire-colored bonded velvet with a revealing chest held in place by a choker necklace in golden brass and shaping-effect pencil lower part. Pair of earrings in enamel, mirror and hammered gilded brass inspired by a collection lock button and a pierced ear. Keyhole minaudière in patent black alligator leather inlaid with 24 carat gold. Trompe l’oeil off-white nappa leather ankle boots with tonal enamel toes decorations.

• Look 25
  

Long coat in fire-coloured bonded velvet enhanced with lapel and pockets in tonal double-faille satin and two jewel buttons in golden brass. Pair of cuff bracelets in striated brass with the effigy of the Maison’s signature ear and keyhole codes. New three-dimensional Face bag in jade alligator skin decorated with jewels in enamel and hammered golden brass forming a trompe-l’oeil face. Trompe l’oeil off-white nappa leather ankle boots with tonal enameled toes decorations.

• Look 26
  

Oversize coat in silk satin with extreme swelling and an exaggerated collar trimmed in hand-painted leather. Bi-material boots in black stretch and patent leather decorated with the Maison’s signature keyhole detail in tonal enamel.

• Look 27
  

Short bolero jacket in embroidered black curly wool inspired by a jacket from the Schiaparelli archives worn by Marlène Dietrich. It is worn on top of a pleated peplum skirt in ecru stretch lambskin. Pair of earrings in the shape of a signature keyhole and hammered golden brass. New “Schiap” bag in ecru lambskin with embossed measuring tape motif and signature keyhole clasp and hand-assembled hammered golden brass chain. Bi-material boots in stretch leather and white patent decorated with the Maison’s signature keyhole detail in tonal enamel.

• Look 28
  

Short jacket in natural Japanese denim with exaggeratedly rounded shoulders enhanced with a black velvet collar and cuffs, tonal encrusted crested breasts and the season’s mix of enamel and golden brass buttons. It is worn over a matching mid-length skirt with lace-up detail in the center. The set is entirely decorated with tobacco-colored stitching and stencil designs created by Daniel Roseberry exclusively for the collection. New Schiap bag in black and white leather adorned with the Maison’s signature keyhole detail. Bi-material boots in stretch leather and white patent decorated with the Maison’s signature keyhole detail in tonal enamel.

• Look 29
  

Cropped puffer jacket in off-white stretch lambskin adorned with an eye brooch in enamel and golden hammered brass. New “Schiap” bag in ecru lambskin adorned with measuring tape pattern and signature keyhole detail clasp with hand-assembled hammered golden brass chain. Calfskin belt with enamel buckle. Pair of gilded brass glasses with perforations decorated with a keyhole detail on the temples. Low-cut twomaterial, two-tone boots in black stretch leather and off-white patent leather decorated with the Maison’s signature keyhole detail.

• Look 30
  

Quilted cardigan jacket in off-white stretch satin fitted at the waist and adorned with a leather trim enhanced with signature anatomy buttons in enamel and hammered golden brass. Pair of eye-shaped gilded brass earrings. Cuff bracelets in hammered golden brass respectively adorned with a pierced ear and nose. Molded chest tote. Black patent leather pumps decorated with the keyhole Maison signature detail.

• Look 31
  

Bustier dress with asymmetric draping in off-white satin with pointed edges. “Oyster” chocker necklace in gold-tone hammered brass and rhinestones. Off-white nappa leather ankle boots with tonal enamel toe decorations.

• Look 32
  

Bustier dress in black bonded velvet. The bustier part is adorned with enamel and hammered and striated golden brass jewels forming a trompe-l’oeil face that takes up the design of the “Face” bag. Pair of black velvet gloves. Flap calfskin card holder with metal press-stud nose clasp. Black patent leather pumps decorated with the Maison’s signature keyhole detail in gilded brass.

• Look 33
  

Off-white cashmere set consisting of a turtleneck sweater and a flared skater skirt. Gold hammered brass choker “oyster” necklace with a decorative “S” clasp and matching earrings. Bi-material boots in off-white stretch and patent leather decorated with the Maison’s signature keyhole detail in tonal enamel.

• Look 34
  

Bustier mini dress in black velvet. It is accessorized with a fleur-de-lis necklace in golden brass and a pair of two-in-one gloves-stole in black draped stretch jersey. Black velvet pumps decorated with the Maison’s signature keyhole detail.