Last Tuesday, July 5th, 2022, Julien Fournié introduced his collection on the runway for Haute Couture Fall Winter 2022 2023. Without forgetting the past and recent crises, he presented his vision for the future. Faced with the foolishness of fashion trends, the French couturier pretends that cut, refinement and beauty still make it possible to transform our vulnerability into weapons and change our perspective to approach the world.His “First Creatures” propose a variety of aesthetic paths to triumph over gloom. In a world where hope seems to be scarce, Julien Fournié’s creatures never give in to pessimism. They draw from past wounds, the strength which turns them into heroines. They keep their spine straight, assume femininity, induce their own authority.
For the Haute Couture Fall Winter 2022 2023 collection, Julien Fournié draws his inspiration from the open sea:
- Manta rays are set up as a symbol of grace. They appear on a delicate necklace, fruit of the collaboration of Julien Fournié with Adrian Colin, the glass artist. The futuristic and organic shape of this animal formerly called “sea devil” is inlaid in silk organza or tulle on dresses and riding coats. It is also seen on the hemline of certain jackets. It insinuates itself on the bottom of the backside in a black sheath. Everywhere, this shape enhances the anatomy of these half-woman, half-alien silhouettes which are blending in the same graphic outline virtual legend and physical appearance.
- Jellyfish arouses both fascination and dread. Julien Fournié uses its umbrellas and tentacles as splendid and venomous embellishments.
- The tentacles of cephalopods and the rostrums of sea mammals sensually underline the means of perception in this ecosystem as well as possible exchanges between neighbours—be they of different species— in an ocean of borderless circulation.
In his color palette for the season, Julien Fournié makes shades of black and midnight blue sing. He also chooses to weave metallic colored threads together, moulds bodies into 3D silk jersey, translates the skin of the oceanic creatures he cherishes here into the pattern forming the mesh of a fine jersey, emphasizes the skin with a sheer fish scale embroidery on a “nude” tulle sheath, uses organza to depict the iridescence of light when it is reflected in the pelagic space.
“For two years, we have explored new means of expression through original films. But nothing can replace the physical presentation in front of a chosen audience … to experience the same emotions together. Seeing our models again on the runway is essential, especially for Haute Couture. The matter, particularly in this field, does not go without the substance: that of a personal story told to who can read appearances, that of a resolute cut aimed at highlighting the rough edges that make up a person.”