Erdem Presents Its New Autumn Winter 2023 Collection

Whilst peeling back the layers of his Bloomsbury townhouse, Erdem discovered echoes of the building’s former residents. Sickly arsenic green wallpaper lined one room, long buried by subsequent owners. He found the drawing of a nude silhouette tucked away in a chimney breast. Evidence of a hatch in the kitchen next to the entrance hall suggested a monitoring of comings and goings, and the outline of a doorway gives a clue that the building was once connected to its neighbour. The old house has secrets. Who are its ghosts and what are their stories that linger still?

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In Victorian times, the building was joined to its neighbours to form “A Home of Hope for the Restoration of Fallen Women”, founded in 1860 and active until the early 20^th Century. By 1892 the interconnected houses had received 3,216 women through their doors. The majority were temporary residents for whom hope eventually delivered (one hopes). To be admitted to the Home of Hope was to be offered a hand from the brink of falling out of society. The stakes were high.

The Home of Hope was considered a benevolent environment, though records reveal a riot incited in the square by intoxicated residents who had missed their curfew, which might suggest otherwise. Perhaps there is a sense of unravelling revelry in the bones of the house too? Constant footsteps on stairs and floorboards and endless doors opening and closing, induce surreal hallucinations. The women are long since departed, but the imprints and vestiges of their presence remain.

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Jet embroidered Victorian remnant trench coat in black wool jacquard with cotton faille cape back.

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Cropped Victorian jacket worn with twisted draped bustle skirt in floral chine printed metallised taffeta.

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Double breasted tailored jacket in black wool jacquard worn with pieced cape back shirt in white cotton faille, men’s trouser and black taffeta gigot glove.

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Balloon sleeve shirt dress with exploded skirt in floral chine printed metallised taffeta.

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Single breasted tailored riding jacket in black wool worn with twisted draped bustle dress with embroidered bodice in arsenic green taffeta, worn with black taffeta gigot glove.

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Pieced double breasted coat in rose wool jacquard with Victorian jet embroidery worn over a printed ivory floral chine cotton taffeta dress.

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Double breasted tailored jacket in black wool jacquard, worn with white poplin shirt, twisted draped bustle skirt in white taffeta and black taffeta gigot glove.

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Asymmetric pieced shirt dress in damson floral printed crepe de chine worn with embroidered shirt harness in white cotton faille.

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Sleeveless dress with full skirt in exploded floral printed damson cotton faille worn with deconstructed shirt in white cotton faille.

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Pieced cable knit cocoon sweater with slashed back and fluted cable knit skirt with Victorian jet embroidery.

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Cropped knitted sweater in grey alpaca yarn with Victorian jet embellishment worn with black embroidered bra and twisted draped bustle skirt in black taffeta.

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Embroidered cropped Victorian jacket worn with twisted draped bustle skirt in acid yellow taffeta.

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Sleeveless dress with full skirt in iris embroidered threadwork cloqué worn with black taffeta embroidered shirt harness and black gigot glove.

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Iris guipure lace dress with ruffle skirt in acid yellow worn with embroidered bralet in acid yellow taffeta.

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Tailored double-breasted coat in black cashmere wool with iris embroidered threadwork.

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Iris guipure lace asymmetric draped dress with ruffle hem in black worn with embroidered bralet and black taffeta gigot glove.

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Double breasted suit in black metallic floral vine fil-coupé with black taffeta gigot glove.

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Sleeveless dress with full skirt in reversed citrine metallic floral vine fil-coupé with ravaged hem, worn with deconstructed shirt in white cotton faille.

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Corset dress with harness in reverse black metallic floral vine fil-coupé with ravaged hem.

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Tailored double breasted Crombie coat in citrine metallic floral vine fil-coupé worn with white poplin shirt.

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Pieced remnant halter-neck dress in ivory cotton faille with Victorian jet embroidery.

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Asymmetric taffeta dress with draped bodice and sleeve in black cotton faille with Victorian remnant embroidery worn with black taffeta gigot glove.

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Corset dress with harness in embroidered lilac taffeta.

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Deconstructed draped Victorian bustle top in arsenic green taffeta with embroidered bodice worn with tailored trouser in black wool jacquard.

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Deconstructed draped Victorian bustle dress with embroidered bodice in acid yellow taffeta.

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Long sleeved fluted dress in damson with iris velvet cutwork.

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Fluted slip dress with iris organza cutwork embroidery lined in lilac sequin worn with iris sequin bra top and lilac taffeta gigot glove.

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Long sleeved fluted mid length dress with iris organza cutwork embroidery lined in lilac sequin.

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Lilac shredded organza ruffle dress with dégradé hem.

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Black shredded organza ruffle dress with dégradé hem.

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Double breasted Crombie coat in black rose jacquard worn over floral printed silk voile ruffle dress and iris sequin bra.

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Pieced dress in green floral print satin with exposed seam detail and exploded gigot sleeves in black taffeta.

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Dress with draped asymmetric peplum in bronze crushed satin with exploded floral print worn with sheer bralet in black cotton tulle.

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Long sleeved dress with fluted hem in petal pink floral print metallised crushed satin and exposed seam detail and taffeta gigot glove.

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Long sleeved dress with fluted hem in crushed metallised bronze satin with exploded embroidered iris appliqué.

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Asymmetric peplum drape dress in metallised winter pink crushed satin with exploded embroidered iris appliqué worn with damson taffeta gigot glove.

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Tailored double breasted coat in black cashmere wool with exploded embroidered iris appliqué worn with metallised bronze crushed satin pencil dress and black taffeta gigot glove.

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Draped pigment cloud dress in colour washed metallised taffeta with black tulle overlay.

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Draped pigment cloud dress in arsenic green colour washed metallised taffeta with black tulle overlay.

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Victorian crystal embellished tulle dress layered with bronze sequin, veiled in black tulle.

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Long sleeved dress in Victorian crystal embellished tulle layered with bronze sequin, veiled in black tulle.

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Skeletal tulle long sleeved gown with Victorian crystal embroidery.