Erdem Launches Its New Pre Fall 2024 Collection

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For Pre-Fall 24, Erdem is backstage with the opera singer Maria Callas. The legendof Callas’s stage performances belied a personal life of insecurity and tragedy. Incharacter she had an electric capacity to project complex emotional states with hervoice. Off stage she wore her vulnerability in public. When the lights go down whatlies beneath this voice with its primal power?

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This is a study in the tension of balancing control and passion, restraint and ferocity,image and expression. The collection examines how Callas dressed and carriedherself, at times deriving pieces from garments worn by the singer and at otherstaking volumes, details and motifs of the era as starting points. Structure anddrapery, tailoring and organic shapes are combined and contrasted to intriguingeffect. There are late-50s and 60s silhouettes: cocoon shapes; boat-neck dresses andfelted pea coats with voluminous backs. The feeling is decadent with a sharp edge,not unlike how some critics described why the voice of Callas was so memorable.

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In several looks there is a tussle between austerity and playfulness, that could almostbe riotous or wild. A black dress is swathed with an over-sized fuchsia bow. Monasticdresses have built-in bows and capes with jewel encrusted shoulders. A cloqué gownwith exaggerated bows on the shoulders feels elegant and exuberant. A blackduchesse dress with a structured bustier and waist has a sculptural quality. Knits withmint green draped skirts are casual and formal simultaneously.

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Flower motifs, particularly roses, feature throughout the collection as symbols ofadoration. On silk dresses they appear blurred, as if caught in motion mid-flight,thrown from audience to the star with rapturous applause. A long gown is entirelycovered with hand-dyed applique roses in varying shades from red to pink.Elsewhere more subtle hints and echoes of adulation appear, with silk printed rosesbeneath black tulle skirts, and a black peplum suit jacket with hundreds of blackcrushed flowers that are almost camouflaged.

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There is rich glamour to the collection; this is the wardrobe of a character who livedtheir life on stage and in the society limelight, dressed by the now forgottencouturier Madame Biki, who happened to be Puccini’s granddaughter. The thresholdbetween on and off stage is thin and porous. Garments for performance can becomegarments for protection under the fierce gaze of the public eye.

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