Cormio Presents Its New Spring Summer 2022 Collection
Music spills onto the street outside a quiet haberdashery in Milan. Is it a speakeasy? A party? An underground club? A memory of afternoons past comes to life?
The adolescent fever of partying before the sun set informs Cormio’s SS22 presentation, which takes the Tyrolean details the house has been accumulating to a more punkish place where lingerie is synonymous with outerwear, and the shorter your mini skirt the closer you are to God.
The collection luxuriates in the coming-of-age narrative where fashion history is pillaged irreverently in the name of self-discovery. Grandmother’s heritage pastel skirt suits with their big gold buttons get paired with nipple-baring tube tops while mom’s negligees get worn out like dresses.
The 60s, 70s, and 80s are just one big blur of DIY magazine spreads that are cobbled together to make a Xeroxed-print for a brand new belted dress. The season remains true to Cormio’s own coming of age by laying in lots of its signature knits including belted skirts, pullovers and cardigans. Knit dresses of all moods and colors from New Wave stripes to belly button baring halter dresses that recall Hollywood’s version of the seventies.
Teasing out the tenacity and romance of youth’s ambition, the collection of toys with the way the familiar things one finds in a wardrobe can transform overnight with a simple act of dress up.
The same goes for this season’s venue, a classic 1940s haberdashery store, which normally houses neat shelves of buttons and bolts of fabric, but today is the home to a raucous performance that pairs Cormio’s master embroiderers to blaring house music. Working under their own spotlights, Cormio’s back of house team becomes the main event. It is a dislodging of the established hierarchy of fashion but also a window into a lineage of strong creative women who have always bent the past to their own means.