Xander Zhou Pro Presents His New SS25 High-Tech Couture Collection: Anachronotale
Luxferity, 01.11.2024
“Music and Dancing not only give great pleasure but have the honor of depending on Mathematics, for they consist in number and in measure. And to this must be added Painting and Perspective and the use of very elaborate Machines, all of which are necessary for the ornament of Theaters at Ballets and at Comedies. Therefore, whatever the old doctors may say, to employ oneself in all this is to be a Philosopher and a Mathematician.” - Charles Sorel, Sieur de Souvigny (1602 – 1674)
Oscillating between the elegant and the grotesque, XANDER ZHOU PRO SS25 High-Tech Couture Collection “ANACHRONOTALE” stages a time-defying carnival. It resurrects and reassembles iconic archetypes from ballet and comedy traditions, recasting them into the future.
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As foundational forms of ballet and comedy, ballet de cour and commedia dell’arte were integral elements of European pre-Lent carnivals. During courtly carnavals, meticulously staged ballet performances — a display of the monarchy’s power and refinement — took place in royal venues, where nobles embodied deities, heroes, and ideals. Meanwhile, in the public carnevale, professional actors brought improvisational comedy to the streets, portraying stock characters such as the greedy, the hypocritical, or the cunning, blending entertainment with social satire. It could be argued that ballet de cour and commedia dell'arte closely mirror the Apollonian-Dionysian dichotomy.
Whether through role reversal or en travesti, both ballet de cour and commedia dell'arte employed masks and costumes to facilitate the transformation of identities. Vessels of aesthetic ideals, masks in ballet de cour were crafted to enhance visual harmony and convey refined beauty. In commedia dell'arte, masks were designed to represent distinct stock characters, using exaggerated forms to highlight the absurdity of the roles. When nobles portrayed comedic figures, it was to demonstrate their ability to contain and resolve chaos. When comedians portrayed the powerful and the well-respected, however, it was to deconstruct societal norms and expose their inherent contradictions. While the metamorphoses enabled by costumes and styling may appear superficial, they lead to a deeper redefinition of identities.
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The new emerges through dialogue with the old, while style takes shape in the interplay of past and future; as order and chaos rise and fall, the tale spins perpetually. XANDER ZHOU PRO SS25 High- Tech Couture Collection “ANACHRONOTALE” is about to unfold as four suits of cards.
♥ 红桃 Hearts · 秩序守护者 The Warden 高筒军帽: 护卫与士兵 Guards and Soldiers 忠诚 Loyalty · 骑士精神 Chivalry
Shako:
The shako originated in the 18th century as part of the Hungarian hussar uniform, designed to make soldiers appear taller and more imposing.
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Today, it has taken on a more ceremonial role, often seen in the uniforms of honor guards and hotel porters. At XANDER ZHOU PRO, the shako is streamlined into an inverted bucket, with toile de Jouy prints and metallic textures replacing traditional embellishments such as feathers, braids, and medals.
Nutcracker Sleeve:
In the ballet production The Nutcracker, the soldiers' uniforms often retain the highshouldered silhouette that defines the classic nutcracker toy.
Flying Diamonds
XANDER ZHOU PRO SS25 reimagines this geometric form in exaggerated suit sleeves, evoking a sense of disciplined order and the futuristic elegance.
Bomber Jacket:
Originally designed for practicality during WWII, the bomber jacket has since evolved from military gear to a timeless streetwear staple. In XANDER ZHOU PRO, its utilitarian zipper front is replaced with a shawl collar typically found in evening attire and robes.
♠ 黑桃 Spades · 秩序制定者 The Ruler 仪仗军装: 贵胄与君主 Aristocrats and Autocrats 威严 Majesty · 自持 Poise · 运筹帷幄 Command
Ceremonial Uniform:
In 18th-century Europe, military attire became inseparable from aristocratic menswear, symbolizing the interplay of political and military power.
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XANDER ZHOU PRO SS25 reimagines the sash, medal, and epaulet with minimalist abstraction, transforming these emblems into flat, hollow motifs that both echo and subvert the visual codes of authority.
Courtly Puff Sleeve:
Louis XIV not only spearheaded the codification and refinement of classical ballet, but also set the stage for an opulent and theatrical fashion trend. Under his influence, men began wearing high heels, donning wigs, and incorporating lace and silk — materials previously reserved for women's clothing — into their wardrobes. Much like the billowing breeches, the voluminous sleeves symbolized power and material wealth, contrasting with the cinched waistcoats to define a striking silhouette. In the XANDER ZHOU PRO SS25 collection, the courtly puff sleeves are tapered as poet sleeves, integrated into everyday pieces such as knitwear and shirts.
Trench Coat:
In 1823, Scottish chemist Charles Macintosh pioneered the development of modern waterproof clothing with his invention of rubberized fabric.
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During World War I, British designers Thomas Burberry and John Emary further refined these waterproof materials, creating the trench coat to protect soldiers in the muddy trenches. After the war, the trench coat evolved but retained its double-breasted design and structured tailoring, becoming an iconic garment on screen, as seen with Neo in The Matrix and the Tenth Doctor in Doctor Who.
In XANDER ZHOU PRO’s latest collection, the trench coat, born from technological innovation, is once again reimagined within the framework of science fiction.
♦ 方片 Diamonds · 秩序权衡者 The Mediator 长矛骑士、剑士与芭蕾舞者 Jousters, Fencers, and Danseurs 优雅 Elegance · 游刃有余 Mastery · 平衡自如 Balance
Jousting Armor:
In the grand celebrations and weddings of Renaissance European courts, jousting was a form of entertainment that showcased martial prowess and the spirit of chivalry. Five centuries ago, jousting armor featured chest plates with mechanical devices that allowed the adjustment of lance angles, while metal panels on the chest reflected sunlight to distract opponents, a precursor to human-machine integration.
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The faulds worn on the lower body mimicked the texture and pleating of velvet fabric in metal, echoing the structure of crinolines, emphasizing the wearer's physical elegance. This season, mechanical panels appear in the form of appliqués or are reinterpreted as classical tutus, continuing the sci-fi armor motifs of previous collections.
Poulaines:
In the courts of medieval France and England, the poulaines, introduced from Poland and originating in Persia, became a fashionable item among the nobility.
The extravagant, elongated form was impractical for labor, and the longer the toes, the greater the indication of status. To facilitate walking, wearers sometimes had to tie the pointed toes upward, fastening them to their legs. This trend of decorative design, epitomized by pointed shoes, also influenced aristocratic male footwear.
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During the reign of Louis XIV, fencing boots were not solely utilitarian designs, but rather lavishly adorned with jewels and buckles. According to Baroque dance historian Belinda Quirey, the difficulty of walking with toes pointed forward in such boots led men to adopt an outward foot rotation, a position that became central to fencing stances and, in turn, inspired the turnout positions in ballet.
Interestingly, the costumes of commedia dell’arte also featured the absurd, comedic pointed shoes with curled tips. XANDER ZHOU PRO further amplifies the curvature, incorporating it as a recurring element throughout this season’s designs.
• * In the court of Louis XIV, equestrianism, fencing, and ballet were the three disciplines that noblemen were trained in from a young age. These activities served as a means of transforming martial prowess into displays of order and courtly etiquette.
♣ 梅花 Clubs · 秩序颠覆者 The Dissenter 机灵鬼、草根智者与喜剧演员 Harlequins, Pulcinelle, and Comedians 活力 Vigor · 嬉 笑怒骂 Satire · 挑战权威 Subversion
Harlequin Pattern:
In commedia dell'arte, one of the most beloved stock characters is the clever and humorous servant Harlequin (Arlecchino). The diamond pattern associated with clowns today originated from Harlequin's costume, which was initially made of multicolored patches, symbolizing the poverty of the lower class. Over time, these patches evolved into the stylized diamond pattern.
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In XANDER ZHOU PRO, the diamond shapes are reconfigured and inverted into vibrant geometric patterns.
Ruffle:
The opulent ruff collar, once favored by the European elite in the 16th century, eventually evolved into the softer, more practical ruffles as it became more widely adopted. In commedia dell'arte, Pulcinella, who embodies street-smart defiance of authority, wore loose-fitting costumes with flowing ruffles adorning the collar, cuffs, and hem, all fluttering with movement, a reflection of his free- spirited persona.
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This season, XANDER ZHOU PRO reinterprets the ruffled collar into geometric forms, while the cuffs are inverted, transformed into ruffled gloves.
Cane:
The cane, originally modeled after the scepter and serving as a replacement for the sword, was once an emblem of status for European gentlemen. Yet in the hands of the comedic genius Charlie Chaplin, the cane became a prop for subtle mockery, a tool for orchestrating the relationship between body and space, as well as a playful instrument to reveal the silent struggle between the everyman and the upper class. In the previous XANDER ZHOU PRO collection, interstellar aristocrats strode with canes in hand; this season, however, the cane finds itself in the grasp of colorfully dressed clowns.
Necktie:
Whether it was the romantic cravat or the minimalist bow tie, rendered in solid black satin or polka-dotted cotton piqué, the necktie remained one of Buster Keaton's signature elements. The "Great Stone Face" even deliberately tied neckties of varying widths into asymmetrical bows. In XANDER ZHOU PRO SS25, the necktie is detached from the collar, transforming into embellishments for sashes and jackets — charming and playfully eccentric.
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