Sirivannavari X Beauty Gems Present New High Jewelry Collection: “Amour Éternel”
Luxferity, 18.12.2024
Embracing the enchantment of 2024 festive season, SIRIVANNAVARI by HRH Princess Sirivannavari Nariratana Rajakanya, the Creative Director, collaborates with Beauty Gems, one of Thailand’s leading jewelry houses, to unveil AMOUR ÉTERNEL collection. This exquisite fourth chapter in SIRIVANNAVARI's High Jewelry journey celebrates the enduring bond between couture and jewelry as complementary forces within the universe of luxury. With unmatched excellence and the rare craftsmanship of Beauty Gems' master artisans, the collection showcases 62 one-of-a-kind and limited-edition pieces. Together, they narrate the extraordinary story of SIRIVANNAVARI, drawing inspiration from beauty of nature - particularly Thai local flowers- along with brand codes, and signature designs, all seamlessly woven into a singular vision born from the designer's brilliance.
“Amour ÉTERNEL is about love — or Amour in French — encompassing love, affection, and care as the source of inspiration,” reflected HRH Princess Sirivannavari Nariratana Rajakanya, Creative Director of SIRIVANNAVARI, on the creative process behind this fourth High Jewelry collection. “This collection extends the vision of the 2023 collection, Heirlooms of Elegance.”
“Each piece is unique, characterized by intricate details that bear testament to Thailand’s inherited métiers d’art, a heritage of exceptional craftsmanship in jewelry making. It incorporates rare and sought-after savoir-faire, including intaglio or gem carving, fancy-cut expertise, green wax casting, openwork structures, and more. The challenge lies in thoughtfully selecting and applying the right techniques for each design, ensuring they tell the poetic story of my inspiration or imagination while subtly and ingeniously representing the brand’s codes.”
“The art of transformation and the empowerment of women, which lies at the heart of SIRIVANNAVARI’s philosophy, remains paramount. To exceed expectations, this collection also features white diamonds and rare gemstones of exceptional quality, selected according to our exacting standards. Every piece in this collection is crafted to embody eternal love — a legacy to be cherished and passed down from generation to generation.”
The profusion of colored stones and white diamonds reveals radiant brilliance through intricate compositions set within refined structures of precious metal, gracefully embracing the body. Each piece embodies HRH Princess Sirivannavari Nariratana Rajakanya's vision to create jewelry that can be worn as close to the skin as possible — a feat achieved through the meaningful collaboration with Beauty Gems’ master artisans. Their unparalleled expertise brings these mesmerizing designs to life, employing exceptional and rare techniques, including precise stone selection, lapidary artistry, green wax casting, intricate setting, and meticulous polishing of both gemstones and white gold.
“Reflecting the ingenuity of our craftsmen — virtuosos who master and refine skills that only a few Maisons can and will perform today — the entire creative process for this High Jewelry collection is imbued with the art of exquisite detail,” said Mr. Suriyon Sriorathaikul, Managing Director of Beauty Gems, about this collaborative development.
“The jewelry savoir-faire is meticulously applied and adapted to fit each design, its purpose, and functionality, bringing to life the story of HRH Princess Sirivannavari’s inspiration. This is achieved through rare lapidary techniques, such as the briolette cut, which maximizes the reflection of diamonds by faceting the entire drop-shaped stone with double rose cuts or dual triangles. Another remarkable feature is the invisible setting, which enhances the brilliance of stones by reworking princess-cut diamonds to fit securely against one another within a metal border or rail, making the jewel’s structure as inconspicuous as possible.”
“Every element is as rare as it is precious, including a batch of Padparadscha sapphires, renowned for their extraordinary and exotic color range — a unique blend of pink and orange. The name itself is borrowed from the ancient Sanskrit word describing the hue of a tropical lotus flower at sunset. Equally exceptional is the sugar-loaf-shaped tanzanite, with tanzanite being 1,000 times rarer than a diamond, it is considered a ‘one-generation gem.’”
With delicate lines and intricate articulations meticulously designed and precisely calculated, each piece adapts flawlessly to the curves of the neck, wrist, finger, or earlobe. The volumetric perspective captures the finesse and lightness of fabric dimensions, as if draped directly onto the skin. From necklaces to bracelets, rings to earrings, each creation is inspired by couture craftsmanship, amplifying the radiant shimmer of gemstones carefully selected to meet the highest standards of excellence.
Like intricate stitches and embroidery patterns, various shapes of precious gems, complemented by diverse setting techniques, perpetuate the harmonious dialogue between jewelry and couture. This collection celebrates SIRIVANNAVARI's creative journey as an infinite source of inspiration, from the flora and fauna of Princess’ Garden — particularly local Thai flowers — to the culmination of HRH Princess Sirivannavari Nariratana Rajakanya’s signature designs and brand codes. These include symbolic motifs such as the horseshoe and star, representing luck and hope, the horsebit as an homage to the designer’s passion for equestrian art, and the iconic “S” Signature.
The Protagonist Creations
- Purest Rose Brooch
Extending the original design of Rosa Queen Sirikit Brooch from previous 2023 collection “Heirlooms of Elegance”, the asymmetrical position of the petals in volumized dimensions as if in motion is reinvented to celebrate White Diamond as a queen of all jewels due to its unique ability to reflect and refract light, resulting in their characteristic brilliance and sparkle. Featuring a variety of details, even the round diamonds as dew drops on rose petals, and setting techniques with positioning in parallel and slightly overlapping, the combination of white diamonds and white gold gives this unique piece an intense sparkle, catching the eye with both its silhouette and brilliance.
- Majestic Paon Diamond Brooch
Being associated to the rarity of white peacock, this white diamond Majestic Paon Brooch with its flowing train seems like emerging from the fire of clarity.
While the raised shape of design and supple white gold structure offer the piece a graphic, embossed effect, the overlapping of openwork feather motifs intensifies the sparkle of various diamond shapes from round to brilliant, baguette to square and pear to briolette, embodying the essence of the designer's work, and showcasing an intricate form of craftsmanship. It demands precision and extreme attention to detail, featuring gentle, flowing lines that exude grace and sophistication. The result is a creation reminiscent of a natural white peacock, shining with brilliant and exquisite beauty.
- Edge of Symmetric Parure: Necklace, Earrings and Ring
Featuring a rare blend of deep pink and vibrant orange, this unique sapphire is exceptionally hard to find. It was first discovered in a Sri Lankan gemstone pond, giving rise to the phenomenon known as “Padparadscha” in Sanskrit. The term refers to the pink hue of lotus petals at sunset, a fleeting moment of beauty. It's used to describe a rare gemstone that possesses this extraordinary color.
To enhance the allure of these rare, high-priced sapphires, which have been meticulously selected, the “Edge of Symmetric Parure” jewelry set was created. This collection, featuring a necklace, earrings, and ring, showcases a symmetrical design that highlights the contrast between the graphic angles of various geometrically cut diamonds. The components, including round, square, baguette, and trapezoid shapes, are arranged to capture incoming light. This light is then directed towards the pink sapphire, which has been expertly cut into a teardrop shape, complemented by 17 detailed oval beads for the necklace, 2 beads for each earring, and 1 bead for the ring, creates a stunning reflection as it illuminates Padparadscha.
- Lace of Briolette Parure
The technique of water drop diamond cutting, utilizing a rose square cross-section, is renowned for its subtlety and intricacy. This method is typically reserved for precious stones due to its complexity. It's especially challenging to find diamonds with unique properties, particularly among the fancy diamond group or large colored diamonds. The cross-section between the corners is designed to fully enhance the diamond's brilliance. Meanwhile, the very tiny diamonds present a challenge to craftsmen's skills. The parallel rose-cut facets on smaller diamonds require significant patience and precision. Additionally, creating numerous pieces of the same size for decorative details demands consistency to ensure uniformity and harmony in the final piece.
Resembling a teardrop without a base, the teardrop diamond or briolette lacks an upper surface.
As a result, its installation demands an encrusting technique or securing the pointed end to allow the diamond to dangle and sway gracefully, showcasing the artistry of this movement. Only a handful of skilled polishers, who are increasingly rare today, can craft a 360-degree diamond drops that shine with such brilliance, dazzling the eye from every angle.
To uphold and celebrate the excellence of precious cutting techniques, and in honor of the artistic legacy of HRH Princess Sirivannavari presents the "Lace of Briolette" jewelry collection. This set draws inspiration from the delicate and airy qualities of lace netting, transforming it into a white gold framework that feels surprisingly light when worn against the body. Whether in the form of a necklace, bracelet, or earrings, it serves as the foundation for intricately weaving rose-shaped teardrop diamonds. These are paired with diamonds of various cuts, enhancing the design with the distinctive S Signature motif. The white gold seamlessly integrates with the entire piece, creating a harmonious blend.
- Panache of Sapphires Parure: Necklace, Earrings and Ring
An exemplary homage to the art of gradation, the fantastic colors and dynamic lines of “Panache of Sapphires” embody one of classic traditions of High Jewelry in emphasize the natural beauty of gemstones by blending their scintillating nuance with the gleam precious metal.
Inspired by couture, the regal design of lattice choker as soft and light as lace took Beauty Gem’s virtuoso craftsmen to achieve a mesmerizing combination of sparkling diamonds and vivid blue sapphires set in pendeloques on graphic lines reproduce from the real lace to shines the fineness of their crystallization, strong color and elegantly elongated shape, gliding smoothly over the skin. Thanks to the painstaking workmanship from gem hunting into a prodigal set, with a harmonized symmetry of clarity, color, cut and carat, both necklace and earrings’ flexible structures feature individual elements that are ingeniously connected one by one achieving impressive wearability, exalting the exquisite brilliance and intricate grace.
- Melodorum Melodrama Parure: Necklace, Earrings and Ring
Depicting one of Thai endemic plants that its blossom emits the captivating scent in the evening, each element to make up this refined parure set was worked meticulously before composed on the structure.
The polished white gold complements the clarity of white diamonds, illuminating the symmetric silhouette with myriad reflection thanks to the masterful cutting and setting techniques from square to pear shapes, grain to pavé and hale-bezel settings to endow each piece the simmering quality.
To retrace the SIRIVANNAVARI’s creative history, its distinctive styles is reinterpreted and illuminated in the entire collection reflecting the “Amour Éternel” as a part of patrimonial legacy.
Chapter I: Love of Nature
- Symphony of Gardenia Earrings
Expressing the Princess’ appreciation for Thai native flowers, these Symphony of Gardenia Earrings combine white diamonds with the favored precious white gold to create a naturalistic three-dimensional floral silhouette.
Enhanced by meticulous openwork, setting and polishing, from top to bottom, the dynamic movements of gardenia petals are carefully portrayed and highly detailed.
While the petal motifs converge to a central corolla, conveying impression of a blossoming flower, this naturalistic silhouette is accentuated through the contrast between monochrome floral composition of white diamond and vivid blue of tanzanite in sugarloaf-cut as a heart which amplifies the diamonds’ fires delicately and gives the piece more graphic style.
- Cattleya Queen Sirikit Orchid Diamond Brooch
The Cattleya Queen Sirikit Orchid Brooch, originally composing of variously-shaped buff topped diamonds - square, baguette and round – to form a blooming corolla around the topaz pistils with the emerald leaf made its debut in previous high jewelry collection “Heirlooms of Elegance” as a tribute to a hybrid of Cattleya Bow Bells and Cattleya O’brienia “alba” which was received the royal permission to be named “Queen Sirikit Cattleya” in honor of Her Majesty Queen Sirikit the Queen Mother of Thailand.
Thanks to the expert hands of master artisans, this new variation “Cattleya Queen Sirikit Orchid Diamond” Brooch does not only celebrate the traditional techniques reserved for white diamond, particularly pavé and grain setting, but also preserves and transmits even today to future generations of jeweler for the art of waxing and casting to fabricate each part of orchid flower from its lip to column, petals to sepals and stem to leaves with respect to the realistic beauty of majestic flower.
- Siamese Elephant Legacy Brooch and Gracious Night Hours Brooch
Constantly omnipresent in many collections by SIRIVANNAVARI, majestic elephant and wisdom owl together bring two of designer’s cherished sources of inspiration: nature and symbolic signs.
Being captured in their natural movements, both designs embody the benevolent and generous nature with combining well selected precious materials, sinuous and graphic outlines and graceful silhouette to highlight the excellence of savoir-faire. Intricately cut, positioned, set and polished, these details instill an intense radiance, endowing the creations with vitality and refinement.
While Siamese Elephant Legacy Brooch makes a regally appearance thanks to a graphic combination of materials on ornamental clad being depicted by an alternation of diamonds and color-stones, the Gracious Night Hours Brooch attracts the eye with elaborately crafted details of different diamond cuts – round, square and fancy as well as the geometric lines composing an elegant harmony. For both creations, the relief effect is emphasized by various techniques of setting and engraving with attention to detail revealing the designer’s desire to surpass her prowess, drawing on nature as an infinite source of nature.
- Crown of Blossoms Parure: Necklace, Earrings and Ring
Captivated by the fantastical corolla of orchid, the exotic flower which is celebrated as “Crowned Queen of Survival” in flora kingdom due to its forceful vitality to adapt the proliferation systems to the harsh environment, Crown of Blossoms parure captures this noble flower symbolizing longevity and fertility into a striking design, opulence in passion and radiance.
Combining an abundance of gemstone and masterful jewelry techniques particularly the green wax casting to reproduce the realistic dimensions of orchid’s corolla, from sepal to petal and column to lip, different style of setting from grain to pave, flush to bezel and invisible setting and manifesto of articulation in asymmetric proportion, therefore, this parure represents the unparalleled savoir-faire of craftsmanship that only a few artisans can perform nowadays. With a spectacular ensemble of various sizes of orchid motifs in a refined composition on lightweight and flexible white gold structure to intensify the shimmering radiance of the stones from necklace to earrings and ring, each piece in this luminosity set graces the skin as testimony to art of detail.
- Splendid Serenade: Necklace, and Earrings
Depicting a generous floral garland, Splendid Serenade Necklace with its matching earrings celebrates the “Wood of Life”, Guaiaccum officinale or Lignum vitae the holy flower symbolizing strength and longevity, one of Thai native flower in “Princess’ Garden”, on the luxuriant composition highlighting the art of intaglio, a rare craftsmanship in carving the vibrant aquamarines into the motifs of this symbolic flower.
With shimmering diamonds both in the center and lining around the curvaceous silhouette of each corolla, the limpid precious stones with their even and delicate blue color like the real Guaiac flower, selected with the greatest care by Beauty Gems’ expert gemologists, form a harmonious asymmetry – their tones blending perfectly with the graphic motifs of deep blue sapphires, cushioned aquamarines, the leaf motifs of diamonds and white gold strewn across the creation.
Making the piece comfortable to wear, the necklace is punctuated by discreet articulation and its ensemble is repeated on the earrings to be the testimony to SIRIVANNAVARI’s art of detail.
- Pergola of Tournament: Bracelet and Earrings
Entirely flexible, both bracelets and the matching earrings are inspired by Art Deco graphic lines.
With an articulated structure that ensures comfort to wear, they adapt to the curve of wrists gracefully. While on the visible side, thin insertions of sculpted white gold motifs representing the brand’s identities with horsebits and S Signature are beset amidst the mist of gems adding a colorful touch to the captivating architectural lines in the style of micro mosaics, the back of each piece also displays virtuoso techniques.
With several setting techniques, the stones have been selected for their color and harmonious dimension to compose bejeweled panoramas of mellifluous shades. And to suffuse the stones with an intense sparkle, their intricately openwork structures allow the light to pass through.
Chapter II: Symbols of SIRIVANNAVARI
For nearly two decades since its inception, SIRIVANNAVARI has infused inspiration into its design, developing symbols that define the brand's identity. These representations reflect the designer's essence, becoming instantly recognizable through the S Signature, derived from the founder's initials. Emblems like the horseshoe and horse hook, symbols of good fortune and equestrian art — HRH Princess Sirivannavari's favorite sport — are woven into the brand's narrative embedded with various elements, including the style or "Art Deco.”
These diverse symbols are crafted into patterns on the jewelry or transformed into motifs of polished metal or white gold, adorned with diamonds and precious gems. This is achieved through unparalleled craftsmanship and high-tech jewelry techniques rooted in tradition. Each piece is imbued with uniqueness, maintaining a contemporary style that remains relevant across eras.
- Cascade of Leaves Earrings and Cascade of Petals Earrings
One of SIRIVANNAVARI’s signatures, Art Deco influenced geometric design, is reinterpreted into the vertical articulated structure with all the nimble grace fluidity of fine fabric like a long scarf or satin ribbon.
Set in bezel allowing light to pass through, Cascade of Leaves and Cascade of Petals Earrings sparkle like fine ripple of shimmering finest fabric in gradation of each colorway to enhance the fluid lines of white gold openwork structure. Like a ballet of scintillating ripples, the remarkable flexible silhouette follows each movement freely and naturally.
To conceive a nuanced palette of stones, our expert gemologists endeavored to assemble sapphires in different groups, blue for Cascade of Leaves and pink for Cascade of Petals, according to intensity of color from lightest to darkest along with the quality of crystallization, resulting the delicate harmonies ultimately. In addition, the traditional High Jewelry expertise is infused in each piece, while the articulations unite each bezel making for distinctive fluidity with elegance, the graceful mounts also seem to disappear in deference to the gems revealing the full brilliance to exalt the subtle gradations in hue among the sapphire.
- Equestrian S Parure: Necklace, Bracelet and Earrings
Combining the iconic codes of Maison from horsebit, S Signature, ear of rice motif and even Art Deco braided jewelry, this Equestrian S parure set of necklace, earrings and bracelet is an eloquent expression of the White Jewelry aesthetic with perfect symmetry of motif articulation.
Crafted in white gold set with significant number of precious stone, an impression of lightness radiates from the creation thanks to the extreme discretion of polished metal mounting to magnify the diamonds’ brilliance.