Sustainable label Duran Lantink marked its first runway show on the official Paris Fashion Week schedule with its collection of 46 consciously-constructed looks, just one season after the brand’s premier défilé and having won the ANDAM Special Prize in July.
Lantink’s latest collection picks up right where it left off; informed by the final looks from the previous season. The label, based between Amsterdam and Paris, is keen to form its own language. However, transformation— rather than continuation— remains a hallmark of the brand.
SS24 is a foray into tailoring and is conceived from original garment construction as opposed to hybrid design. While a few repurposed garments remain in the collection, most looks are created from recycled or upcycled fabrics such as nylon, lycra and vintage denim and lace. Notably, the mod flower print that appears on everything from a bikini to an oversized shoulder bag, is referenced from an archive specialising in traditional Dutch clothing (a nod to the designer’s motherland) and printed on recycled lycra.
Exaggerated shapes and forms remain an essential aspect of the brand’s vernacular, with added impact. Clothing ‘icons’ like the t-shirt, denim jacket, and ‘little black dress’ get the Lantink treatment— necklines float, contours shift, and optical illusions emerge. Swimwear seen through the brand’s lens is particularly buoyant, whereas bikini tops are tubular objets d’art. While these sartorial staples have achieved cult status for good reason, Lantink chooses to pay homage by reimagining them versus endlessly repeating them.
“We’re interested in exploring the classics and what could be made new within them,” says Lantink. “We want to perfect them, but in our own playful way.”