Courrèges Presents Its New Spring/Summer 2024 Collection: The Miseducation Of Courrèges
Luxferity, 11.01.2024
An overblown Courrèges logo towers over of a cylindric silo, its door, left purposefully ajar, inviting the curious few to venture in. In its center, a freshly-cast square is coated with the whisper of desert winds, filling the space with an irrepressible rush of adventure.
The Courrèges class of ’24 turns conventional theory on its head, starting with its secular House codes. Signature geometry is warped into fluid, polyvalent shapes that reclaim the body’s agency and open each garment to its interpretation. Campus archetypes are reworked into experimental silhouettes, their hybrid construction expressing the body’s desire to be free. Slouchy polo dresses in cotton piqué, oversized Harrington vests and fitted biker jackets are spliced and zipped asymmetrically to articulate deconstructed ideals. As our tribe sets up camp, cotton canvas pieces exhibit a mastery of technical engineering that can morph a military skirt into a hooded mini dress in a moment’s need.
In its final chapter, the collection heightens the holistic perspectives introduced in the SS’24 pre-collection, sharpening Nicolas Di Felice’s vision of a spiritual quest captured in the unfolding of a fashion show. As necklines are opened or funnelled upward, the body’s posture broadens powerfully, signalling the advent of newfound beliefs. New Age symbols pay tribute to the elements, ray-like motifs adorning leather armours, sand and metal transforming into silver and glass breast-plates that celebrate a lineage of star-bound amazones. In the crystalline vacuum of distorted chemistry sets come-jewelry emerges the promise of new life.
The second act of Nicolas Di Felice’s coming-of-age epic, Courrèges SS’24 collection questions notions of authority and norm, revising symbols of male-led history through an empowering tale of female pioneers. Their first steps on virgin land shatter the moon-like surface, carving a fissured road that chronicles each passing stride. A tense, whistling melody borrows from spaghetti western scores, its complex, acid-tinged layers conjured by House composer, Sene and Di Felice himself. Imagined by artist Remy Brière, this entropic stage takes after the stripped-back strategies of Land Art, its brittle form echoing the clashing encounter of Mind and Nature. In this sculptural framework, the body strives to perform geometry, its accidental imprints delineating an infinite road forward. ‘Let me tell you a story’ breathes the voice of an omniscient narrator as the crackle of clay weaves into the spiralling soundscape.
Both defined and emancipated from their education, our heroic graduates brave the road ahead with self-servient optimism. In a closing blast of artificial sunlight, the tenuous balance of comfort and chaos, permanence and revolt is the lesson their journey leaves behind. Though unsure of its destination, this staged exodus dispels a universal message of hope captured in the alchemy of light, movement and imagination. Whatever lays beyond is just a matter of faith.
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