ArdAzAei Presents Its Third Couture Collection, Calabi–Yau: The Hidden Dimensions
Luxferity, 28.06.2024
An exploration of string theory through the medium of couture, Calabi–Yau: The Hidden Dimensions marks ArdAzAei’s debut on La Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode (FHCM) official Haute Couture calendar. A collection of 25 looks that merge science fiction with the physics of fabrication, Calabi–Yau: The Hidden Dimensions is guided by a sequence of mathematically generated infinite loops that unfold as petals bursting over sculptural silhouettes, with the oscillating loom of superstrings at the foundation of the theory’s ten dimensions expressed through intricate pleating and bespoke embroidery.
Blossom Convertible Earrings with Onyx & Agate
“Geometry and mathematics have inspired me since the inception of ArdAzAei for their ability to reveal the rhythms of nature, and this collection is based on the curiosity of how different materials with different properties can be manipulated to create the optics of geometry in motion,” says Bahareh Ardakani, founder and artistic director of ArdAzAei. The collection takes its title from the Calabi–Yau manifolds, a visualisation of how the multiple dimensions of string theory relate to each other. When laid flat these visualisations resemble flower petals—when folded together, they form a series of infinite loops. “It’s about the idea of the universe being folded, and the vibrating strings of fibres that form the scaffolding of each piece.”
Gold Astra Ring with Rubies & Diamonds
The collection interprets these phenomenon with a recurring motif of degrade-printed silk organza and satin ‘petals’ which envelop the skirts, sleeves and trains of kinetic cocktail dresses and fishtailed gowns, accentuated by crystals at the edges of their folded curves. A series of evening gowns that demonstrate that the savoir-faire of string theory take this idea to the extreme, with layers of folded fabrics creating circular volumes that spiral across silhouettes to freeze an infinite loop in silk faille and lamé.
Diamond Dip Heeled Sandals
Embroidery with bespoke beads features prominently in the collection, with the Maison pioneering a new technique of double embroidery, where beads are embroidered on beads to create a big bang effect of light exploding from a dress. Elsewhere, crystals cut into the six sides of the ArdAzAei emblem are arranged in floral compositions and embroidered alongside sequins and glass beads in arrangements that evoke the vibrating loom that underpins string theory’s ten dimensions.
Ultrapop
The tension of these vibrating superstrings also informs the architecture of pleating, where layers of geometric silk organza pleats are intricately arranged to create hidden dimensions within their folds. In sculptural dresses, layers of pleated plissé fans are morphed from the sharp geometric lines of the bias-cut bustier into shell-like shapes as they flow down to a train composed of silk organza fans pleated to form the ArdAzAei emblem.
Dark Blue Earrings
Meanwhile, the familiar dimensions of ArdAzAei’s signature tailoring are deconstructed: corset silhouettes create an hourglass figure to emphasise the fourth dimension of time; shoulders are removed from lapels to give dresses their deep décolleté; a trench coat becomes a sheer silk dress; and a new ArdAzAei suit is introduced, with a futuristic high collar and cut from organic silk—one of eight creations in the collection certified by the Global Organic Textile Standard.
Vamps Premier Bag
Pop Up Lame Copper
Jumpsuit Tuxedo
Pink Pumps With Ornaments
Deep Purple Mercure Baguette Bag
Bracelet Gabriel In Silver
Harmony Micromosaic Print Airbag
