All of us who work in fashion know that much of the rest of the world thinks that what we do is silly. It's a boring criticism, and we all argue otherwise, but if you think about it, fashion is silly at times. It's also provocative, upending, challenging, and meaningful. It's breathtaking. It's beautiful.
In recent years, though, it's felt like fashion has tried its hardest to prove it actually isn't silly. The pressure designers feel to make a statement about the current political situation, our ongoing climatic disaster, the inequalities among people of different races and genders, and an age of war has in fact led to some extraordinary work, not to mention a reengagement of our industry with the broader culture.
But it's also led to a sometimes dreary self-seriousness, one that foregrounds fashion with sloganeering. It's easy to be self-serious. The more difficult path is remaining an engaged member of society while also, in one's work, daring to return to a kind of creative innocence, to the state of wonder and awe we all felt when we saw our first transcendent show.
I always talk about trying to achieve that state of creative innocence—of fighting to stay close to that person who fell in love with fashion and its possibilities, of not succumbing to cynicism or world-weariness. I hope that spirit comes through in this collection: I hope people who see it can tell what fun the team and I had making it. I hope the joy we felt, of creating things, of getting to make beautiful objects that people will always remember, is evident in every coat, dress, and accessory.
I think we sometimes get defensive when our critics accuse us of just wanting to make beautiful things. But what's wrong with wanting to make beautiful things? It's not the only important part of life, of course, but it is a part of life. And to make truly beautiful things isn't actually that easy. But it is a privilege—and I'm grateful for it every day.
- LOOK 1
A short jacket with sharp shoulders in black velvet is embellished with tone-on-tone embroidery of black grapes inspired by Elsa Schiaparelli’s original archives. The piece reveals a silk crepe skirt suspended from a champagne double satin corset with two black velvet bows.
Shiny braided black boater hat. Round gilded brass earrings with bead adornments.
Velvet ribbon choker.
- LOOK 2
A molded corset in black crêpe with velvet rib embroidery, worn with a black draped taffeta skirt that is held by a gold chain with a padlock pendant. Underneath is a sheer black mesh bodysuit.
Gilded brass ear cuffs are adorned with crystals.
- LOOK 3
An asymmetrical jacket in black crêpe is embellished with gold measuring tape embroidery on the right side and golden sculptural ears of wheat embroidery that cascade down the neck to the bottom of the left sleeve. Velvet ribbon choker. Gilded brass earrings in the shape of wheat with almond crystal adornments.
- LOOK 4
A small quilted jacket in ivory double-satin is embroidered with three-dimensional breasts. Two small sparrows crafted from molded leather, feathers, and tonal glass beads are embroidered on the shoulders. The piece is worn with a short draped black velvet skirt that is fastened with a gold chain.
Velvet ribbon choker. White braided boater hat.
- LOOK 5
A bustier in white leather is molded into a naked torso. The piece is worn with a draped low-cut skirt in black velvet with pompoms on the bottom. White lace panties.
Sunhat in thick straw.
- LOOK 6
A jacket with sharp shoulders in black stretch velvet is worn on top of a white doublesatin corset embroidered with an iconic motif of pearls, badla, and lurex. The pieces are paired with an extreme low-waisted trouser in black velvet.
Gilded brass hammered dove earrings with rhinestones under the wings. Velvet choker with gilded brass heart pendant embellished with rhinestones. Shiny cream braided boater hat with long bow.
- LOOK 7
A “déshabillé” dress in black velvet is worn with a gold and rhinestone headpiece with pale green pearls as grapes.
- LOOK 8
A Cocteau inspired lace-up jacket in black velvet with sharp shoulders has a neckline that shows a trompe l’oeil face profile. The piece is worn with a lace-up skirt in black velvet.
A pair of hammered gold-plated brass twisted link earrings. Hat and muff in trompe
l’oeil feather wheat embroidery.
- LOOK 9
A low-cut corseted gown in black velvet with a draped skirt in black satin.
Black velvet choker with large cross snail and breast pendant in hammered gold. Black velvet bracelet.
- LOOK 10
A black asymmetrical velvet dress.
Velvet ribbon choker with large gilded brass anatomical heart pendant adorned with rhinestones. Boater hat in woven straw decorated with lavender feathers.
- LOOK 11
A bias-cut dress in pale green satin is worn over a black Chantilly lace bra adorned with black velvet ruban.
Velvet ribbon choker with large gilded brass twisted padlock pendant. Boater hat in natural sinamay and gold lurex.
- LOOK 12
A bustier dress in black velvet with a pale green satin bouillonné.
Black velvet ribbon choker.
- LOOK 13
A net dress with its strands embroidered with blue pearls and strass is worn with a smocked white taffeta top with goat hair sleeves.
Round gilded brass earrings with bead adornments. Ivory braided boater hat.
- LOOK 14
A dress that is made fully from strands of baroque pearls has sleeves and neck in black velvet. It is embellished with black velvet pompom finishing.
Gilded brass hammered earrings in the shape of a twisted padlock in relief. Sun hat in thick natural straw.
- LOOK 15
A slip dress in black jersey with jet embroidered strap. Gold-plated pewter and brass earrings adorned with rhinestones and beads. Velvet ribbon bracelet.
- LOOK 16
A top completely made from strands of pale topaz beads is fastened together by a black velvet ribbon necklace. The piece is worn with a low-waist draped trouser in black wool-silk canvas.
Round gilded brass earrings with bead adornments. Braided white boater hat.
- LOOK 17
A draped asymmetrical shirt in white double-satin boasts voluminous sleeves. The piece is worn with a tapered skirt in black crepe and a velbet bag.
Cream and black horsehair and net boater hat. Gilded brass hammered dove earrings with rhinestones under the wings. Black velvet chocker.
- LOOK 18
An asymmetrical dress in midnight blue velvet with a sunflower embroidered on the left breast. Sombrero in thick natural straw. Black velvet chocker.
- LOOK 19
An asymmetrical dress in ivory silk taffeta with grape embroidery embellished with silk black ribbon and vintage pearls.
Velvet ribbon choker. Hammered gilded brass snail-inspired earrings with inlaid breasts. The cream braided boater hat is adorned with a small embroidered golden dove.
- LOOK 20
A top and skirt embroidered completely with light topaze rhinestones. Black velvet ribbon finishing.
Boater hat in natural sinamay and gold lurex. Black chocker and black velvet bracelets.
- LOOK 21
A dress entirely made of strands of crystals and silver glass bugle beads with a metal flower corset that is encrusted with rhinestones.
Round silver earrings with bead adornments.
- LOOK 22
A sharp coat in midnight blue velvet is embellished with hand painted hydrangeas, parrot tulips, orchids and daisies. Finished in gold leaf.
Gold-plated horseshoe-shaped earrings are adorned with rhinestones. Velvet ribbon choker. Camel half boater in straw.
- LOOK 23
A short jacket with sharp shoulders in black velvet is embroidered with hand painted sunflowers with gold leaf finishing. The piece reveals a champagne duchesse corset and is worn with a low-cut skirt in black jersey.
Honeycomb straw half boater hat. Round gilded brass earrings with bead adornments.
- LOOK 24
A jacket with sharp shoulders and a corset waist is crafted from vintage denim and adorned with hand painted molded leather flowers. The piece is worn with a lace-up denim skirt and a champagne bra.
Velvet ribbon choker. Round gilded brass earrings adorned with beads.
- LOOK 25
A short jacket in amber velvet is embroidered with arabesque three-dimensional pansies in black sequins, strass, tassels and fringes. A style inspired by an original design of Elsa. The piece is worn with a bouillonné skirt in glacial blue satin that has a sculpted effect.
Black velvet ribbon choker. Hammered silver-plated brass earrings take the shape of a gold metal dove in relief that is adorned with rhinestones and gilded doves.
Black velvet belt.
- LOOK 26
A strapless dress in black velvet is embellished with a bouquet of three-dimensional hand painted tulips.
Realistic eye earrings in white enamel.
- LOOK 27
A velvet corset embroidered with multi-colored hand painted flowers, worn with lowwaisted pants in velvet.
Black velvet choker with red lacquered anatomic heart.
- LOOK 28
A corset in lilac satin is embellished with lavender flowers constructed out of purple stones and metal leaves. The piece is worn with a fitted skirt in black velvet.
Black horsehair and lace boater hat.
- LOOK 29
A coat in black velvet with sharp shoulders has trompe l’oeil drawer embroidery complete with hardware. The piece references the iconic Bureau-Drawer suit from 1936, which marked the first collaboration between Elsa and Salvador Dalí.
Lightly hammered gold-plated brass earrings inspired by a drawer handle.
- LOOK 30
A dress in royal blue velvet with a plunging neckline is worn with a velvet ribbon choker with an anatomical heart pendant in black enamel adorned with rhinestones.
- LOOK 31
A draped bustier dress in black velvet and satin bouillonné is worn with a gilded brass beaded necklace.
- LOOK 32
A long skirt in midnight blue velvet. A dove in molded leather, organza and white beads holds a golden olive branch. Earrings inspired by a drawer handle.
Boater hat in natural sinamay.
- LOOK 33
An asymmetrical corset in red silk is attached to a long skirt in red velvet. A necklace composed of red beads holds a red lacquered anatomical heart pendant adorned with rhinestones that sits on the left breast.