Louis Vuitton Brand
Louis Vuitton Unveils Its New Tambour Ceramic Watch
Luxferity, 18.02.2025
The Louis Vuitton Tambour reimagined in ceramic and rose gold – where modern elegance meets the pinnacle of craftsmanship.
Presented in 2002, the first Louis Vuitton Tambour watch set out the distinctive layout that prevails to this day. However, the Maison’s iconic watch underwent a remarkable elevation in 2023, recasting its casual elegance into the modern morphology of the integrated bracelet luxury watch. While the drum-shaped case of this revamped version is immediately recognizable, every detail has been perfected to produce a sleek, sculptural design. With slimmer lines, a new micro-rotor movement designed by La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton and outstanding finishes throughout, its 40mm case is worn on a fluid, ergonomically designed integrated bracelet, ensuring an exceptional fit and enhanced comfort regardless of the wrist size. This new interpretation of the Tambour elevates the art of ceramic to a new level.
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This new Tambour is now further refined in brown ceramic and rose gold in an embodiment of modern aesthetic and unmatched comfort. With the idea to always bring a new level of sophistication, it stands out with high-end design choices and artisanal finishes attainable only through very exclusive production. If it retains the design and dimensions of the other time-only Tambour watches, this reinterpretation in ceramic and rose gold required a complete re-engineering of the model’s case and bracelet.
The case’s sophisticated architecture now incorporates an internal gold core. Visible on the reverse side of the watch, the case back is also in gold, further highlighting its preciousness. Designed to protect the movement, this internal container is covered with the ceramic components. Also crafted in ceramic, the drum-shaped crown is fluted and emblazoned with the LV signature. The sculptural lines are graced by exceptional finishes – the satin-finishing of each of the two ceramic covers requires a meticulous handwork. The bezel is meticulously hand-polished and then sandblasted to highlight the 12 polished LOUIS VUITTON letters.
N°33 Havana Brown
Exceptional and hand finishings ceramic mastery
Ceramic (ZrO2 Zirconium Oxide) is a captivating material, but it is particularly demanding to work with. Durable, highly resistant to scratches and corrosion, lightweight, and hypoallergenic, it is supremely smooth to the touch. It can be produced in a wide range of colours with a unique sheen and depth. Yet, brown is even more challenging to achieve than black or white. Achieving the perfect shade of brown, chosen by La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton Design Studio, involves a complex process requiring highly specialized skills.
Showcasing the brand’s characteristic attention to detail, this supremely elegant Tambour combines the warmth of rose gold with the modern appeal of matt ceramic. The combination of cutting-edge techniques and meticulous craftsmanship is evident in every detail. Altogether, 90 hours of work are involved in the making and finishing of the ceramic components alone, with half of this time carried out by hand.
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Entirely performed in Switzerland, the manufacturing process of ceramic is tailored for Fine Watchmaking. It radically differs from standard industrial production. In particular, while the fabrication of ceramic watch parts generally involves injection moulding, the precise geometry of the Tambour ceramic components is shaped using high-tech machining techniques and perfected by expert craftsmen.
The multi-step process starts by machining raw ceramic blocks. Due to the hardness of the material, machining ceramic is a highly demanding process. It requires elaborate techniques, advanced 5-axis machines and cutting tools all dedicated to the production of ceramic. The right colour and exact size are obtained by firing the blocks at high temperatures with careful control of shrinkage. The ceramic parts are then machined again to obtain the desired shape and dimensions with utmost precision.
Passage De Drake Salmon S
The meticulous finishing of each component also sets the Tambour apart from the vast majority of ceramic watches. The sleek design of the case and bracelet is emphasized by the alternating polished, brushed or micro-blasted surfaces, creating eye-catching reflections. Despite the complexity of the process, it is finished with the same attention to detail and demanding standards as the gold Tambour watches. The elaborate and diverse surface finishings and the hand-polished chamfers are all perfected by hand to a level that cannot be achieved with industrial processes such as vibratory tumbling. These are especially delicate to perform given the smooth, rounded lines of the model.
v-40 Blue Dusk On Block Bracelet
Louis Vuitton’s iconic brown
To reimagine the Tambour in ceramic, Louis Vuitton developed a unique ceramic colour, inspired by the signature shade of the Maison’s trunk. Brown has also been the emblematic colour of the Tambour watch dial since 2002, enhancing its edgy style and casual elegance. Last, the combination of rose gold and ceramic adds a luxurious feel and a sense of heft while also contributing to the robustness of the model. The science of creating a specific ceramic colour is a complex and delicate process. It requires a deep understanding of the reactions between the different compounds and pigments – in particular, their behaviour at high temperatures to create the desired colour, texture and depth.
A brown stepped dial completes the monochrome look. Its sophisticated architecture resonates with a perfect sense of balance, expressing a subtle but assertive elegance. Its unique sheen is achieved with a galvanic treatment followed by the application of several layers of lacquer to create the perfect shade that matches the brown ceramic case and bracelet. Different finishes further enhance the compelling sense of depth. The central part of the dial features vertical brushing, the hour disc is sandblasted, and the small seconds subdial is snailed. The hands, markers and numerals are crafted in 18k rose gold. Hand-applied Super-LumiNova® with blue-emission ensures optimal legibility in all conditions.
Purple Storm
Bracelet reinvented in ceramic and gold
The bracelet of this first Tambour in ceramic was another challenge. It was entirely reconceived to preserve its flowing lines and exceptional ergonomics while still ensuring a seamless integration into the case. Smoothly tapering from the case towards the folding buckle, each of its links is individually rounded with a curved profile to ensure a perfect fit on the wrist and enhance its durability. These feature a meticulously handbrushed surface contrasting with the hand-polished chamfers and the polished rose gold central links. 80% of the bracelet production time is dedicated to the manual finishes.
Remarkably, there are no visible pins on the links’ profile. Instead, the interior side of the bracelet reveals a sophisticated assembly composed of a rose gold articulated “backbone” with screws securing the ceramic links and ensuring supreme flexibility. An invisible triple-folding clasp in rose gold completes the sleek aesthetic and ergonomic design of the bracelet.
Solar Eclipse
Micro-rotor movement by La Fabrique du Temps
Visible through the rose gold display case back of the watch and protected inside a gold container is the same automatic calibre LFT023 as found for the other Louis Vuitton Tambour. Featuring a 50-hour power reserve, this proprietary three-hand movement was designed by La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton, the Swiss manufacture at the heart of the Maison’s watchmaking mastery, in collaboration with movement specialist Le Cercle des Horlogers. Its high inertia 22K rose gold micro-rotor allows for a thin profile while providing an uncluttered view of the movement’s superb architecture and refined finishings. The bridges are micro-sandblasted with polished edges and chamfers, while the mainplate features circular graining. Openworked in the shape of an LV monogram flower, the barrel cover offers a glimpse into the mainspring while the micro-rotor is engraved with a stylized LV tapisserie. The modern aesthetic is complete with colourless jewel bearings.
Using a 4Hz frequency, the LFT023 calibre has a timekeeping accuracy of between -4 and +6 seconds per day. An officially certified chronometer, the precision of each movement is controlled by the Geneva Chronometric Observatory under the auspices of the TIMELAB Foundation.
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The Louis Vuitton Tambour in ceramic and rose gold embodies the essence of the Louis Vuitton watchmaking. The unique mastery of ceramic and the state-of-the-art Artisanal craftsmanship reflect the exclusive expertise and attention to details that define this exquisite creation. High level of sophistication and meticulous hand-finishing, result in a watch that exemplifies La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton’s commitment to pushing the boundaries of both technical innovation and High Watchmaking expertise.
Complicité Harmony Blue
- Tambour Ceramic
W1CR10
Case:
• Material: Ceramic and 18K pink gold case, ceramic bezel
• Diameter: 40mm
• Thickness: 8.30mm
• Sapphire crystal, anti-reflective coating
• Open case-back
• Water resistance: 50m
Dial:
• Brown dial
• Small second counter at six o'clock
• 18K pink gold hands, numerals and indexes;
luminescent coating on hands and numerals
Movement:
• Mechanical self-winding movement, calibre LFT023.01
• Diameter: 30.6 mm/1.2 inches
• Thickness: 4.2 mm/0.2 inches
• Functions: hours, minutes, small second
• Oscillating weight: 22K pink gold micro-rotor
• Power reserve: 50 hours
• Number of jewels: 31
• Frequency: 28,800 vibrations/hour - 4Hz
• Certification: Certified chronometer by the Geneva Chronometric Observatory, ISO 3159 standards - Accuracy -4/+6 seconds per day
Bracelet:
• Ceramic and 18K pink gold bracelet
• Invisible 3-blade folding buckle in 18K pink gold
