Louis Vuitton Presents Its New High Jewellery Collection: Deep Time

Louis Vuitton presents Deep Time, an epic journey through the eons, narrated by the most exceptional stones. This is the Maison’s fifth High Jewelry collection designed by Francesca Amfitheatrof, Artistic Director for Watches and Jewelry.

Deep Time is an ultimate and profound voyage, spanning the birth of the planet to the creation of life. With this new collection, Louis Vuitton’s singular, original design signature and high jewelry savoir-faire fuse with the origins of geology and geological legacy that’s at the heart of jewelry and gemstones. This is the Maison’s largest High Jewelry collection to date, featuring over 170 unique pieces – including 95 in the first chapter alone – and a record number of precious stones.

“At Louis Vuitton we are as ever adventurers, travelling to extraordinary, unexpected places,” says Amfitheatrof. “Deep Time will transport you deeply into the past, to a time and place that is so remote and perhaps even difficult to comprehend. But at the same time, the stones – these treasures that span millennia – will bring you right there, to the beginning of the planet and into a history of the world and its mystical geological legacy.”

Deep Time is explored through two acts – geology and life – and encompasses a total of 16 themes, 13 of which are presented in the collection’s debut. Each one features masterfully executed jewels that capture this epic tale of transformation, life and also interconnectedness.

Geology charts our planet’s extraordinary evolution, starting with Gondwana, one of two supercontinent landmasses that marked our planet’s formation. Featuring an exclusive selection of the rarest, no oil Colombian emeralds, Gondwana is followed by various apocalyptic evolutions, expressed through the themes of Volcano, Wave and Rupture, whose explosive powers come to life via the Maison’s distinct design language. There is the signature Louis Vuitton V, graphic and strong, that galvanises the one-of-a kind jewels, as custom-cut LV stones radiate with innate power. The final chapter Drift embodies the sun and sea with a magnificent pairing of aquamarines and yellow sapphires – and makes way for Deep Time’s second act.

Life heralds an intricate and sophisticated universe, where lifeforce drives creation and the graphic makes way for the organic, all set in spectacular jewels across an initial eight themes. Ranging from Origin and Fossils through to Seeds and Flowers, the themes bring a seductive play and juxtaposition of textures, layers and of course the most spellbinding stones. The jewels are also increasingly versatile, with many designed to be worn in multiple ways – a directive around transformability that Amfitheatrof has continued to drive forward over the past five years.

“We have this incredible ambition to find the most beautiful stones, which in Deep Time are all connected to a theme, whether formed from lava, hail from different continents or symbolise an idea,” says Amfitheatrof. “Deep time is a celebration of the past, but also the beauty of nature and the incredible fragility of life.”

• Gondwana

The epic tale begins with the supercontinent Gondwana, one of two landmasses that today covers the continents of South America, Africa, India, Australia and Antarctica. This expansive interconnectedness finds expression in a super rare layout of exclusively no oil Colombian emeralds. A spectacular seven-row platinum necklace echoes the earth’s circular movement, punctuated by the Maison’s signature V motif, which takes shape via seven exceptional emeralds that dovetail into a V formation, culminating in an exquisite 4.51-carat emerald with a rare blue hue and impeccable saturation. Elegant and architectural, the necklace features 259 custom cut diamonds and is complemented by an ultra-modern pair of earrings that outline the shape of the ear and set with two emerald-cut emeralds for a total of 9.29-carats. Meanwhile a ring featuring an outstanding emerald-cut emerald of 8.08-carat is classically set to highlight the stone’s rarity.

• Volcano

This theme conjures massive, volcanic eruptions and seismic activity, representative of the designer’s artistic imagination set on fire. A high collar necklace crafted in a mix of fully articulated platinum and yellow gold bars is an Amfitheatrof signature and comes with an exuberant explosion of 168 carats of mandarin garnets and raspberry pink tourmalines – two stones that also naturally form in lava’s intense heat and pressure. Full of volume yet wearing like a second skin, the necklace is sprinkled with 15 LV Monogram Star cut diamonds and required a total of 2,000 hours of work.

A dynamic, matching cuff continues the exotic colourway, its 53.49-carat cushion cut tourmaline flanked by four mandarin garnets totalling 28.38-carats and dotted with two LV Monogram Star cuts. A second medallion-style necklace is transformable into a brooch as several stunning earrings offer a striking new way to wear the jewels.

• Wave

With our planet awash in flames and tectonic movements, this theme reimagines another cataclysmic geological event: tsunamis and a colossal wave that cools the earth, shattering and reassembling all the elements back to life. This is embodied in a showstopping, high collar Wave necklace that captures the magnetic power of a surging wave that curls and drops into the shape of an arrow. A daring display of liquefied diamonds, the V shape is crafted from an exceptional design of alternating small and large bands of pave and baguette stones, which meet to hold a flawless 6.19-carat LV Monogram Flower cut diamond that dangles with an incredible oval-cut 40.80-carat sapphire from Sri Lanka. Testament to the sapphire’s importance – and its ultra-rare, velvet-like royal blue hue and deep colour saturation – the stone can also be detached and worn on a separate chain.

“The wave curling under your neck is an extraordinary design and extraordinary concept,” explains Amfitheatrof. “It’s so beautifully made and is set with one of the collection’s masterpiece stones.” There is a matching bracelet that echoes the motif, as a pair of sapphire earrings and a ring round out the suite.

• Rupture

Rupture is the result of hundreds of millions of years of tectonic plate movement and signals the separation of the supercontinent.

This metamorphic split inspires one of Deep Time’s most daring and audacious jewels, where a trilogy of unconventional stones – a riviera of 33 brilliant cut zircons, 15 oval-cut opals for 32.77 carats and a triangle-cut yellow sapphire of 13.81-carats – meet in a feminine but also sporty necklace set with a bold and novel gold chain. Versatile and also transformable into two separate jewels, the necklace’s stones were selected for their legacy and history: the warm, sandy zircons are one of our planet’s oldest minerals, even predating diamonds. The sapphire’s intense orange and yellow luminosity is also rare, and plays off the cool gold chain while symbolising the arrival of the sun in the following evolutionary stage.

Also coming as beautiful rings and petite ear cuffs, Rupture is surprising and unexpected in the world of high jewellery, channelling Louis Vuitton’s adventurous, innovative spirit and bold vision.

• Drift

Drift is an ode to the sun and sea, as the earth settles into a new geological age that’s energised by the all-powerful sun, ushering in a new dawn of life. This lifeforce is locked in two main stones – lustrous and intense aquamarine and yellow sapphire – that make their way into a masterfully executed necklace that’s oozes the codes of the Maison. An openworked, interlaced white gold necklace reflects Amfitheatrof’s signature of jewelry as armour, where a zig-zagging, double tier construction of diamonds is the canvas to an astonishing layout of aquamarine and yellow sapphires totalling more than 194 carats, as 18 LV Monogram Star cut diamonds are interspersed between pitched V shapes. The graphic lines pulse with geometric rhythm, and the necklace showcases the High Jewelry atelier’s technical artistry and dynamism. A matching cuff and earrings once more play with Amfitheatrof signature mix of yellow and white gold. “We need water and sun – this is when life can begin,” explains Amfitheatrof. “Drift represents the beauty and balance of the planet as we know it today.”

• Origin

Geology’s apocalyptic evolutions and seismic disruptions now settle and give way to the second act, life.

This begins with Origin, a pure white jewelry suite crafted exclusively in white gold and diamonds. Themed around a single cell that grows and multiplies, the movement and propulsion of life is captured in a necklace of interwoven, converging strands of diamonds, which twist into a subtle V signature and chevron patterns to ultimately encircle a 10.21-carat D flawless brilliant cut diamond, one of Deep Time’s most important stones. The idea of spiralling multiplication, marching towards infinity, continues with bracelets and earrings.

• Myriad

Origin’s evolutionary force and palette of pure white continues, here capturing perpetual movement in futuristic and hypnotic, DNA and double-helix like jewels.

With a spiralling, sensual wave of diamonds that curve into a subtle V shape, the jewels exude both grace and strength. A necklace and matching cuff are notably set with a row of individual bejewelled nails, not unlike the keys of a piano, each one set en tremblant with its own diamond, bringing shimmer and movement to this intricately made and ultracontemporary design. The necklace also features a detachable 4.11-carat LV Monogram Star cut diamond that can be worn on a matching chain.

• Fossils

Deep Time’s pillar of interconnectedness is found in Fossils – these treasures of time and space – that unlock the mystery that our continents were originally one.

Grand yet microscopic, this idea finds expression in a stunningly beautiful three-strand necklace, each band unique and tubular in shape, with the jewel’s preciousness reflected in a multitude of minute details, from diverse patterns to stone setting (including bezel, claws, custom-cut and pave). The Maison’s iconic Damier pattern is interpreted in white gold and diamonds, and complemented by a second strand of white gold beads fashioned into a trellis pattern of pave diamonds. The third strand takes on a delicate honeycomb motif, punctuated with diamonds, and highlighting the design’s intricacy and depth. Linking the three are an enthralling 27.83 carat sapphire from Sri Lanka and a 5.52-carat Monogram Star cut diamond. Requiring a total of 1,740 hours of work, the necklace can be worn in three different ways.

“Fossils is really a roadmap, an imprint that tells us where we come from. Each strand of the necklace is unique and almost imprinted with a visual language that’s left for us to read,” says Amfitheatrof.

The suite features eight pieces in total, including three lighter, more minimalist designs set with sapphires of around five carats each.

• Plants

This nature-themed suite is anchored in an exquisite layout of verdant green emeralds and rich red rubies, and which is exceptionally rare as all are brilliant-cut versus the typical emerald or cushion cut, which is typical of such gemstones.

Brimming with emotional charisma, the choice of stones underscores the Maison’s daring and excellence, which punctuates a double strand, bombe-effect necklace, its tubular shape designed to contour the neck. With an interplay of signature yellow and white gold, this is a true museum-quality, connoisseur’s piece, owing to an exquisite layout of 17 brilliant-cut rubies and emeralds, all perfectly matched in terms of quality, colour and saturation These are further interspersed with 11 LV Monogram diamonds for more than 16 carats, all set in pierced openwork metal that lets light enter and flood the jewel. Solitaire rings, three delicate bracelets a pair of earrings complete the suite.

• Flight

Flight takes to the skies and celebrates birds, one of our planet’s oldest species, illustrated through a beautiful pairing of diamonds and ruby. At 15 pieces, Flight is Deep Time’s largest suite and evokes the floating lightness of feathers, capturing that moment when a bird takes flight. A versatile and transformable cocktail ring – set with a 7.67-carat pigeon’s blood Mozambique ruby – is one of Deep Time’s most important stones; the ring can be worn as either a pure solitaire, flanked by two LV Monogram Flower cut diamonds, or worn with an accompanying bejewelled party jacket that dresses up the solitaire in diamond wings. There are also several earrings and brooches, as well as two necklaces featuring strings of rubies, which again took years to colour match to perfection. Finally, a necklace crafted from individually carved feathers take on the shape of wings, exuding volume and sensuality. The wings curl into the shape of V, a remarkable 4.17-carat ruby nestled within.

• Bones

Bones ushers in a new level of sophistication, exalting the miracle of evolution and further highlighting geology’s link to life and form. With structure and movement at its heart, Bones is Deep Time’s ode to the architecture of humanity – and is personified by one of the collection’s most intricate and breathtaking creations.

The statement-making bib-style jewel is the most complex necklace ever made in Louis Vuitton’s history. Featuring a symphony of stones of unparalleled luminosity and colour – not to mention a journey through the continents – the jewel is set with a 43.58-carat opal from Australia, a pear-cut 20.93-carat Paraiba tourmaline from Mozambique and a total of 91.74-carats of emerald-cut tanzanites from Tanzania. The tanzanites adorn the white gold and platinum necklace’s top collar, designed in a tubular motif that’s echoed in other Deep Time themes. This is spectacularly dangled with a sparkling mesh of fringes crafted from diamond beads, which are woven from alternating squares, rectangles and heights fashioned from more than 260 custom cut diamonds. Fluid and completely articulated, yet architectural and multi-dimensional, the necklace has been engineered to wear in four different ways, including detaching the Paraiba tourmaline to wear on its own. Also in the suite are solitaire opal rings and rakish opal brooches, as well as impressive earrings set with emeralds.

• Seeds

Symbolic of the treasures of birth, Seeds echoes the previous theme of Fossils, recalling a link to the deep past and nature’s evolution. A single strand necklace with a gold and diamond trellis pattern nods to Fossils, and which is magnified either side by 13 juicy rubellite and spessartite garnet cabochons totalling 256-carats. Sitting high and prominently on the neck, the jewel is accompanied by matching earrings and a double-strand bracelet, with the whole suite serving up a powerful explosion of colour and joy that represents the beauty of nature.

• Flowers

Seeds’ power and energy brings us to Flowers, the final leg in this epic tale. The theme is represented by an LV Monogram Flower that sparkles to life in a remarkable floral medallion necklace.

Alternating, custom-cut raspberry-hued rubies and pink sapphires are intricately set into layered pink and yellow gold petals, which radiate from a single LV Monogram Star cut diamond. Suspended from a gold chain of interlocking diamond pave rings and links, the flower also adorns earrings and a ring. This multitiered, emblematic suite marks the final epilogue of the incredible voyage that is Deep Time – a tale of adventure and transformation that began with the interconnected of the continents and travelled through apocalyptic evolutions and the multiplication of life, to finally end here, with the phenomenal, ephemeral beauty of nature, all narrated through the singular, artistic lens of Louis Vuitton High Jewelry.

The Deep Time collection was unveiled in Greece within a scenography designed by Estúdio Campana. This marks the second time that the renowned Brazilian design studio have partnered on Louis Vuitton’s High Jewelry launch, the continuation of a larger, long-standing collaboration with the Maison since 2012, following their debut Objets Nomades collection. With a nod to Greece, home of one of the oldest civilisations, Estúdio Campana have created an immersive installation and bespoke décor that echoes Amfitheatrof’s vision while enriching Deep Time’s epic story.

Finally, for the first time, the High Jewelry collection will also be accompanied by 9 extraordinary, one-of-a-kind bags, featuring exotic leathers sourced to match the themes of Deep Time.