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Collection: Antarctique
Description:
If you have a beautiful engine, you might as well show it off. This is where the art of open-working a watch comes into play. By doing away with the traditional dial, the mechanism is revealed and becomes an integral part of the watch’s aesthetics. Hence this technique requires great care with the decorating, the beveling, the polishing, and the various types of finishing. Furthermore, placing the engine on the dial side and minimizing structural parts also requires ingenious solutions to maintain stability. It’s more challenging if that engine is driving a split-second mechanism activated by clutches, which requires solid anchoring. The results, however, are worth the effort for the magnificent view of a very complex grande complication.
The challenge and the prize when meeting that challenge was the motivation behind Czapek & Cie’s decision to create the Rattrapante line of watches a year ago. The sapphire crystal in the front and on the exhibition case back reveal the intricate choreography of the dial-side mechanism.
Immediately recognizable are the two “Czapek” subdials. At 4 o’clock is a 30-minute totalizer, at 7 o’clock tick the small seconds. In the center of the watch is the tripod bridge that holds down the patented satellite minute train and the split seconds-mechanism. Also clearly visible are the two column wheels needed for the chronograph and the split-seconds mechanisms respectively.
This model features traditionally blued hands that harmonise well with the weave of metallic greys inside the open-worked watch. A closer look reveals a fumé blue shimmer emanating from the minute track and the two totalizer tracks. The effect is produced by the use of sapphire crystal rings that have been treated with metal oxides applied by an evaporation process.
Adding to the visual dynamism of the dial is the red chrono hand, known as the trotteuse in French, and the small red “60” at 12 o’clock.
Another salient visual aspect, though, is the dance of levers and cams on the dial of this split-second chronograph and the clamp, which instantly immobilizes one of the chrono wheels when the split-second pusher is activated. The other chronograph hand must then continue its time-counting undisturbed. When the clamp is released, the immobilized hand will “catch up” (rattraper in French) to its companion. Each part must be manufactured to the highest specifications to ensure absolute precision.
A glance at the SHX6, Czapek’s proprietary calibre created in collaboration with Chronode, is a work of art from the mechanical and aesthetic standpoint. For one, the number and thickness of the main components had to be reduced to make sure the timepiece would keep its streamlined look and feel and fit well into the 42.5-millimeter case. “As with the classic chronograph, the split-second runs on energy tapped from the second wheel,” explains Xavier. “This time, we favoured a horizontal clutch rather than a vertical one to highlight the aesthetics of the transmission”. Furthermore, to ensure the streamlined look of the watch, the number of parts and their thickness was reduced to a minimum. Everything had to fit in the 42.5-millimeter case.
In fine watchmaking, every little detail counts. Besides the exceptional SHX6 movement and the sleek and sharp design of the 42.5 mm. case, a great deal of attention was put on the bracelet. The feeling when placed on the wrist, the comfort in every situation and lightness are as important as the timepiece visual and technical qualities. The capability to be forgotten by its wearer and to suddenly reveal its stunning beauty create an intensely pleasurable dichotomy. This is why the Antarctique collection is equipped by an ergonomic brushed integrated bracelet, whose links mesh to form a highly polished "C" for Czapek.
But there’s more, since January 2022, this bracelet also features a micro-adjustment system, allowing the wearer to extend its lenght by few milimeters in an instant. An additional strap is provided, as Czapek has developed an exclusive quick-change system allowing the wearer to switch from one strap to another in a minute. A large choice of straps is now offered to provide a maximum versatility and playful experience. A range of rubber straps whose pattern recalls the "Stairway to Eternity" design on the Passage de Drake dial are available. A selection of soft calf straps with contrasting topstitches can be also order on demand.
Downolad technical file.
