Coperni Spring Summer 23 is presented in the Salle des Textiles at the National museum of Arts et Métiers in Paris. The room was built in 1850 by Léon Vaudoyer, the museam’s architect and was dedicated to exhibit thread and weaving machines.
Tailored looks are reimagined into hybrid pieces. Men’s tailored jackets transform into ultra feminine dresses falling down the back as a modern crinoline, in representation of change. A change of nature, appearance and time.
Trousers are slightly too big, nonchalant, a trace of adolescence to reveal what is underneath. It’s the idea of movement and levitation around the human body. The softness of a lingerey piece, the first or final touch of a woman’s look, taking over dresses and skirts.
The body is revealed and being rediscovered, evolving constantly. Curves make an appearance, pants are reshaped and the bust exaggerated. Bra cups being used throughout the collection, even as shoulder pads.
Blossoming flowers are printed on a bonded lenticular fabric adding maximum dept motion to the most classic of patterns.
The Power Shoulder era is reimagined showing trench jackets, tailored blazers, and sporty bombers on matching bodysuit. Giving the look, a Roblox game aesthetic.
The house’s classic cut-out garment appear for the first time in trousers, sheer mesh tops and evening dresses.
A single red dress makes an appearance in the show, hint ‘to the woman in the red dress’ in the Matrix, also persued as the bug and forever reference at Coperni.
A new trim is introduced as a key element of the collection, present on garments but also accessories. The metal spiral turning around the body, replaces stitching and here again evokes body transformation, movement and flexibility.
After the Coperni glass bag seen on Fall Winter 22, this season, the glass is broken into 1000 pieces. Embroidered on a delicate silk mousseline, the contrast between the harshness of the glass and the delicacy of the fabric creates an almost “hypnotizing” sonic articulation.
The swipe bag is reimagined as a unique piece in Gold 18 carat made by artisan Gabriele Veneri from SEMAR SRL factory in Italy. The Lady Bag and the Vanit-e bag join the accessory collection, both named as an allusion to the woman’s wardrobe and are redrawn in new proportions.
Innovation is key at Coperni and is part of the brand’s DNA. Coperni and Fabrican Ltd have embarked on a collaboration for a futuristic fusion of science and fashion to create a live unique dress.
The performance, led by Doctor Manel Torres, leader of Fabrican Ltd and inventor of the Spray-on fabric, stars model Bella Hadid creating an experience that sublimates the female body in the purest and most innovative way, tempting to immortalize it. Raising also the environmental and socio-economic challenges of the fashion industry.
The spray-on fabric is the most innovative and avant garde system of the XXI century, proving yet again the world is always evolving and remaining to be drawn.
Styling: Helena Tejedor
Creatives: Kevin Tekinel & Charles Levai
Casting: Samuel Ellis DM casting
Music: Clara 3000
Hair: Duffy with l’Oreal and GHD
Make up: Fara Homidi with Byredo
Skincare: Dr Barbara Sturm
Production: La Mode en Images