Pre-Watches & Wonders 2021: Cartier's Fine Watchmaking

Luxferity, 11.03.2021

ROTONDE DE CARTIER WATCHES

CARTIER FINE WATCHMAKING UNDER THE INFLUENCE OF DESIGN

Pure lines and accuracy of shape, these are the two constraints that guide each Cartier creation. Because the Maison’s watchmakers see watch design as a comprehensive whole, they integrate the complexity of their technical developments into increasingly sophisticated, yet subtle, watch designs. This year, Cartier presents three watches that clearly demonstrate this.

Cartier displays time around the Tourbillon, with three ultra-stylish mechanisms illustrating this true classic of the watchmaking repertoire. Rotonde de Cartier Astromystérieux, Rotonde de Cartier Astrotourbillon, Rotonde de Cartier Skeleton Mysterious Double Tourbillon – each revealing how time is showcased through the architecture of a skeleton movement, the hypnotising mysterious model, or in the complexity of a Double Tourbillon.

At the centre of this vision are two complications dear to Cartier: the mysterious and the skeleton. Cartier’s mysterious movement appeared in 1912 on a clock called “Model A” whose completely transparent dial showcased two hands that appeared to be suspended in mid-air. An unprecedented innovation, perfected at the beginning of the 20th century by Maurice Couët, one of the Maison’s watchmakers. Inspired by the work of the illusionist Jean- Eugène Robert-Houdin, Maurice Couët perfected an exclusive system that was brought to life on this first clock.

It is this innovation, as complex as it is fascinating, that the Maison is pairing this year with an emblematic movement of Cartier Fine Watchmaking, the skeleton. Skeleton watches compose a unique family, a perfect match of form and content, case and movement. An ingenious construction, this entirely openwork watch showcases a movement whose bridges help to tell the time. Created in heavily protected workshops at the Cartier Manufacture in La Chaux-de-Fonds, these three creations reveal a singular dialogue between watchmaking virtuosity and exacting design. A fully fledged research and innovation laboratory, the Manufacture is a centre that serves creativity and is dedicated to enhancing tradition and grounding expert practices in modernity. Since 2001, all watchmaking professions have been based at this singular site, allowing for the creation of Cartier watches, from conception to production: cutting-edge technology works hand in hand with traditional, artisanal crafts.

ROTONDE DE CARTIER ASTROMYSTÉRIEUX WATCH

The watchmakers at the Cartier Manufacture in La Chaux-de-Fonds are turning the spotlight onto the Astromystérieux in an unprecedented interpretation which combines the Tourbillon with the mysterious, a source of expression for Cartier since 1912.

The design is spectacular, displaying the entire movement floating in weightlessness. This watchmaking accomplishment is made all the more remarkable by the fact that the space dedicated to the hidden gears has been reduced to the bare minimum. The tourbillon carriage integrates not only the watch’s regulating organ but also the entire wheel train from the barrel to the balance which is all carried by a sapphire disc. The elongated carriage ensures the function of the minute hands and completes one revolution of the dial every hour.

Amplified in this way, the visible trajectory of the movement evokes the path of a celestial object orbiting in space, like a star suspended in the void, with no apparent connection to the mechanism. Cartier associates one of its most classic watchmaking codes with this complication which is both fixed and mobile at the same time: Roman numerals. The winding crown is set with an aquamarine cabochon matching the colour of the alligator-skin strap.

ROTONDE DE CARTIER ASTROTOURBILLON WATCH

With the Rotonde de Cartier Astrotourbillon skeleton watch, Cartier explores a movement conceived and developed by the Maison’s master watchmakers in 2016 after five years of development at the Cartier Manufacture in La Chaux-de-Fonds in Switzerland.

Today, Cartier places it at the centre of an ultra-graphic dial with a grey case back and silver-coloured transferred numerals.

Due to its complex structure, the tourbillon lends itself to a play of geometry and transparency. This fascinating movement presents two major peculiarities that make it a unique tourbillon. First and foremost, the tourbillon carriage has a specific rotation axis situated at the centre of the movement. The design process was therefore totally different in comparison with that of the gear train, from the two barrels of the movement to the minutes and hours
display. Secondly, this tourbillon carriage is positioned “above” the movement and not directly integrated into the movement, as is the case with a classic tourbillon. These precise mechanics form the basis of a signature aesthetic that takes its shape from the principles dictated by the Maison’s design vision: clean lines, radical design, and the importance of aesthetics.

The entirely skeleton movement displays oversized Roman numerals, a Cartier signature, acting as bridges. The winding crown is set with an aventurine cabochon matching the colour of the alligator-skin strap.

ROTONDE DE CARTIER SKELETON MYSTERIOUS DOUBLE TOURBILLON WATCH

Fitted at the heart of the Rotonde Mysterious Double Tourbillon, this double flying organ appears to defy the universal laws of gravity. The magical mechanism of the mysterious double tourbillon stays true to the aesthetic of Cartier mysterious movements inherited from the mystery clocks first created in 1912.

Unlike the classic tourbillon, the flying tourbillon has no upper bridge. It effects a complete rotation in 60 seconds and appears to be floating completely free in space, with no visible connection to any gear train. The illusion becomes even more striking when the same tourbillon carriage performs a second rotation, completing an orbit every five minutes.

To create the illusion of a levitating carriage, the watchmakers at the Cartier Manufacture used a sapphire disc with a space cut out of it, matching the tourbillon’s dimensions to give the most flawless possible effect. An expression of virtuosity and style that Cartier has been mastering since 2013, when the first calibre of this genre appeared. Today, the watchmakers have moved it to the heart of an entirely skeletonised dial, whose XL Roman numerals structure the space. Stretched around the area left empty for the Mysterious Double Tourbillon, they allow the movement’s raw edges to peek through. The winding crown is set with a jade cabochon matching the colour of the alligator-skin strap.

THE BOX

Cartier has designed an extremely precious, lacquered wooden box for these three exceptional watches, celebrating a craft that is dear to Cartier: wood marquetry. On very fine pieces of wood in six different shades, the marquetry craftsman applies meticulous shading with an airbrush to create movement, depth and relief. The result is a gradation of green, blue and grey.

Once assembled, these tiny pieces of wood form a pattern made of three interlocking spirals. At the centre of each one, an optical lens reveals the dial of a watch. The result is astonishingly vibrant, between the movement of the design, the wood veining, and the chromatic gradation. The shade palette chosen is reminiscent of the watch straps. The wooden marquetry box also includes a travel pouch in alligator leather and a pair of white gold cufflinks with three interchangeable stone bars in sodalite, jade and blue quartz.

A prestigious and ultra-exclusive edition limited to 5 boxes.

ROTONDE DE CARTIER PRECIOUS «ICONS SET»

Numbered limited edition of 5 pieces

ROTONDE DE CARTIER ASTROMYSTERIOUS WATCH

- 43.5 mm, thickness: 11.9 mm

- Platinum

- Beaded crown set with an aquamarine cabochon

- Blue alligator leather strap

- Numbered limited edition of 5 pieces

MANUFACTURE MECHANICAL MOVEMENT WITH MANUAL WINDING 9462 MC

- Encasing diameter: 17 lines

- Total dimension: 38.2 mm

- Thickness: 5.9 mm

- Number of jewels: 25

- Frequency: 21,600 vibrations/hour

- Power reserve: 55 hours

ROTONDE DE CARTIER MYSTERIOUS ASTROTOURBILLON WATCH

- 47 mm, thickness: 14.9 mm

- Platinum

- Beaded crown set with an aventurine cabochon

- Blue alligator leather strap

- Numbered limited edition of 5 pieces

MANUFACTURE MECHANICAL MOVEMENT WITH MANUAL WINDING 9461 MC

- Encasing diameter: 17 lines 3/4

- Total dimension: 38 mm

- Thickness: 9.01 mm

- Number of jewels: 23

- Frequency: 21,600 vibrations/hour

- Power reserve: 48 hours

ROTONDE DE CARTIER MYSTERIOUS SKELETON DOUBLE TOURBILLON WATCH

45 mm, thickness: 11.9 mm

- Platinum

- Beaded crown set with a jade cabochon

- Green alligator leather strap

- Numbered limited edition of 5 pieces

MANUFACTURE MECHANICAL MOVEMENT WITH MANUAL WINDING 9565 MC

- Encasing diameter: 16 lines

- Total dimension: 36 mm

- Thickness: 6.28 mm

- Number of jewels: 26

- Frequency: 21,600 vibrations/hour

- Power reserve: 52 hours

ROTONDE DE CARTIER PRECIOUS «ICONS SET»

Numbered limited edition of 5 pieces

CUFFLINKS

- Rhodium-finish 18K white gold and interchangeable bars in sodalite, jade and blue quartz

- Dimensions: 22.5 x 22.8 mm

«ICONS SET» BOX

- Lacquered wood, wood marquetery decor, palladium finish decor, glass convergent lens, palladium finish metal feet and details and black Kamosho®* interior

- Numbered limited edition of 5 pieces

- Dimensions: length 356 mm x width 241 mm x height 183 mm

WATCH AND CUFFLINKS TRAVEL POUCH

- Grey alligator leather, black Kamosho®* interior and palladium finish press stud clasp

- Dimensions: length 183 mm x height 102 mm x width 61 mm

*Kamosho® is a registered trademark that does not belong to Cartier

MINI MYSTERY CLOCKS

MINI PANTHÈRE MYSTERY CLOCK

Like a classic story that is retold time and again, Cartier mystery clocks have inspired the Maison’s watchmakers with the same intensity since the start of the 1910s. The mystery of their design and what makes them work lies in the creation of new interpretations and new material combinations. This year, however, it’s the scale that is changing. The mini Panthère Mystery Clock is unveiled in proportions that enhance it. This transformation changes the role and function of the object; the mystery clock becomes more delicate, a truly precious, miniature piece. This transformation in aesthetics is no less technical. It takes 24 months for this mystery clock to be completed and for its 225 components to be developed, manufactured and assembled at the Cartier Manufacture in La Chaux-de-Fonds in Switzerland.

A fully fledged research and innovation laboratory, the Manufacture is a centre that serves both creativity and continuous research towards the improvement of Cartier creations. Since 2001, all watchmaking professions have been based at this singular site, allowing for the creation of Cartier watches, from conception to production: cuttingedge technology works hand in hand with traditional, artisanal crafts.

The geometry of this creation, in yellow, pink and blue, is handed down from its predecessors. The time is displayed on a circular, diamond-set bezel surrounded by, for the pink and blue enamel versions, concentric circles and, for the version in yellow enamel, a sunray motif. Hour markers in yellow sapphires or baguette-cut diamonds punctuate the diamond-set bezel at 3, 6, 9 and 12 o’clock. On each side of the transparent dial, engraved gold and enamel plates adorn the rest of the clock with a groove motif. On the rock crystal, this motif adds texture and depth. Everything is mounted on an obsidian base whose colours vary from model to model. This is where Cartier chooses for the panther to appear. In the style of a basrelief displaying diamond fur, onyx spots and an emerald eye, the animal moves to the rhythm of a new, mysterious and intimate era.

An exclusive series limited to three pieces.

YELLOW MINI MYSTERIOUS CLOCK

- Height: 109 mm, length: 75.6 mm, width: 40 mm

- 18K yellow gold enamelled and guilloché plates set with 3 emerald cabochons, rock crystal, bezel set with 4 yellow sapphires and 72 brilliant-cut diamonds (0.58 ct).

- Obsidian base set with 166 brilliant-cut diamonds (1.06 ct).

- 18K rhodium-finish white gold panther bas-relief set with 421 brilliant-cut diamonds (1.54 ct)

- Emerald eyes, black onyx nose and black lacquer spots

- Unique piece

BLUE MINI MYSTERIOUS CLOCK

- Height: 109 mm, length: 75.6 mm, width: 40 mm

- 18K white gold enamelled and guilloché plates set with 3 emerald cabochons, rock crystal, bezel set with 4 baguette-cut diamonds (0.09 ct) and 72 brilliant-cut diamonds (0.58 ct).

- Obsidian base set with 166 brilliant-cut diamonds (1.06 ct).

- 18K rhodium-finish white gold panther bas-relief set with 421 brilliant-cut diamonds (1.54 ct)

- Emerald eyes, black onyx nose and black lacquer spots

- Unique piece

PINK MINI MYSTERIOUS CLOCK

- Height: 109 mm, length: 75.6 mm, width: 40 mm

- 18K white gold enamelled and guilloché plates set with 3 emerald cabochons, rock crystal, bezel set with 4 baguette-cut diamonds (0.09 ct) and 72 brilliant-cut diamonds (0.58 ct).

- Obsidian base set with 166 brilliant-cut diamonds (1.06 ct).

- 18K rhodium-finish white gold panther bas-relief set with 421 brilliant-cut diamonds (1.54 ct)

- Emerald eyes, black onyx nose and black lacquer spots

- Unique piece