Cartier Presents Its New High Jewellery Collection: Le Voyage Recommencé - Chapter 2

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With their boundless quest for beauty and unlimited openmindedness, the artisans and designers of Cartier approach creation with a perpetual momentum. What guides them? Their expertise and curiosity allow them to journey into the heart of Cartier style as if for the very first time, and to approach the fundamentals of the Maison from a new angle.

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“Working with lines, volumes, colour palettes, inspiration from nature and world cultures... We explore so many territories to push the boundaries of creation and discover new horizons. Like a journey that is repeated over and over again, continually drawing on the inexhaustible sources of cartier inspiration.” - Jacqueline Karachi, Director of High Jewellery Creation at Cartier

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WORLD JEWELLERY

Cartier has always had a passion for the world and its cultures. This taste for curiosity is the legacy of a long lineage that is more contemporary than ever.

• DOHARA

First stop: India, with a necklace whose reversible structure, interplay of colour and motifs pay homage to traditional Mughal jewellery. On one side, light bursts from the fire of diamonds, white gold and sculpted rock crystal. On the other, an explosion of red, green and blue lacquer elements make reference to an emblematic Cartier colour combination.

The centre features three oval brilliant-cut diamonds, visible on both sides. Each pavilion is set in a translucent rock crystal motif that harmonises the volume at the back and leaves the diamonds visible. This highly precise lapidary work is repeated on the rock crystal drops around the edge of the necklace, whose design is reminiscent of the boteh motif, an inseparable part of the Indian repertoire. The back of each diamond pavé motif is lacquered in red, green or blue and the finished creation gently drapes over the skin, whatever the chosen look.

SIX DIFFERENT PROFESSIONS FROM THE HIGH JEWELLERY WORKSHOPS COLLABORATED TO CREATE THIS NECKLACE OVER A PERIOD OF MORE THAN A YEAR.

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• BAILONG

As we look ever further afield, why not go all the way to the farthest reaches of Asia? Cartier is passionate about the beauty of its myths, which the jewellers have translated into a sovereign
piece. From the crest to the scales and slender limbs, the dragon, a faithful creature of the Cartier bestiary, is filled with an intense energy that is reinforced by the realism of the design. Both protector and predator, dominating a 30.11-carat octagonal tourmaline, it holds a yellow diamond in its clutches. Its eye sparkles with the fire of a yellow pear-cut diamond.

A HIGHLY DEMANDING EXERCISE IN STYLE THAT STRIKES A BALANCE BETWEEN THE UPPER PART OF THE PIECE, WITH ITS ROUNDED, CURVED LINES, AND THE LOWER COMPOSITION, WITH ITS GEOMETRIC DIAMOND MOTIFS.

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REPRESENTING REAL LIFE

AVOIDING THE PITFALLS OF ROMANTIC OR SENTIMENTAL REPRESENTATIONS OF NATURE, CARTIER OPTED FOR A CREATIVE TENSION THAT RANGES FROM HYPER-REALISM TO STYLISATION AND EVEN ABSTRACTION.

• PINEAS

Pinecone or wisteria? For Cartier, the plant world is an infinite source of inspiration, and for this piece an abstract approach has been taken. Abstract, but brimming with vitality, as reflected in its organic appearance, its great flexibility and the vivacity of its colour palette.

This necklace features two slightly asymmetrical pendants made of pavé rose gold scales enhanced by coral or emerald details. Reminiscent of the structure of pine cones, these motifs are arranged in staggered, overlapping rows. This voluminous, articulated architecture culminates in a waterfall of singularly cut gems. Two separate vines hold a series of faceted beads, with two yellow briolette-cut diamonds weighing a total of 14.59 carats and two hexagonal Colombian emeralds weighing 25.84 carats.

THE INTERPLAY OF CONTRASTS BETWEEN COLOURS AND MATERIALS IS ENHANCED BY THE DELICATE CRAFTSMANSHIP, FROM THE CUTTING OF THE GEMS AND THE SETTING TO THE ASSEMBLY OF THE SCALES INTO TWO VINES SEPARATED BY AN EMERALD BEAD. THE TWO EMERALDS AT THE END OF THE TWO STRANDS CAN BE DETACHED AND FITTED INTO ADDITIONAL EARRINGS, OFFERING A NEW INTERPRETATION OF THE MAISON'S SIGNATURE MODULAR DESIGN.

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PRECIOUS GEOMETRY

GEOMETRY AND CONTRAST ARE TWO ELEMENTS THAT MAKE UP THE CARTIER STYLE. ON THE ONE HAND, THEY ARE BASED ON FORM AND PATTERN, DEVELOPED AROUND SYMMETRY OR ASYMMETRY, AND ON THE OTHER, ON THE STRENGTH OF CONTRASTS.

• MIRAGGIO

The starting point: a line of Ceylon sapphires around which everything is structured. On either side, sapphire and emerald motifs form a symmetrical grid punctuated by graphic onyx details that produce an almost kinetic effect. This structure reveals an organisation in distinct planes, like architecture. The overall effect is a chromatic signature of the Maison, dubbed the "peacock motif" by Louis Cartier.

This creation, which combines geometry, optical effects and volume design, is based on the work of two experts. Before the first designs were created in the Design Studio, the Maison's gem experts found a group of sapphires remarkable for their rare harmony of colour and shape. Next, eighteen sapphires and thirty-six emeralds were cut into triangles by the Maison lapidaries and then set one by one in motifs assembled on several levels, in a setting designed to emphasise the aesthetics of a necklace that slips effortlessly over the skin.

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LIGHT MATTERS

EVERYTHING AT CARTIER REVOLVES AROUND THE PURITY OF LINES, THE BALANCE OF SHAPES AND VOLUMES, THE PLAY OF PROPORTIONS AND THE FINAL HARMONY OF THE ENTIRE PIECE: A STRONG VISION THAT PRESIDES WHEN STRUCTURES OF LIGHT ARE BORN.

• EXIMIS

Cartier has made a 4.15 carat yellow-brown Fancy diamond, with an original diamond cut, the centrepiece of this ring with a dazzling game of volume. The architecture of the shapes and the choice of this singular solar diamond make this an intensely Cartier creation.

ALL AROUND, TRIANGULAR WHITE DIAMONDS FORM A FRACTAL STRUCTURE, SPLIT INTO SYMMETRICAL FRAGMENTS. THE MIRROR POLISH OF THE METAL EMPHASISES THE VOID LIKE A GRAPHIC LINE, ADDING DEPTH TO THE DESIGN AND A SENSE OF LEVITATION AROUND THE STONE. ALTERNATING FACETS IN A STAGGERED PATTERN, POWERFUL LINES AND THE FLOW OF LIGHT ALL COMBINE TO ENHANCE THE BRILLIANCE OF THIS RARE STONE.

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CARTIER, A RESPONSIBLE JEWELLER

Through the Coloured Gemstones Working Group and the Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC)—whose Code of Practices has been extended to rubies, sapphires and emeralds—the Maison encourages the development of best practices throughout the industry. In addition to applying rigorously controlled internal standards of excellence and quality, the Maison requires its suppliers to adhere to the same responsible practices and encourages and supports their RJC certification. Driven by the common belief that Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs) and the dream of being a responsible industry can only be reached through collaborative initiatives, Cartier, supported by Richemont and Kering, have teamed up to expand and consolidate their efforts by launching the Watch & Jewellery Initiative 2030, which aims to develop a sustainable, climateresilient industry that conserves resources and promotes inclusion.