Breguet Brand
Breguet Presents Its New Type XX Chronograph 2067 - Gold In The Spotlight
Luxferity, 17.09.2024
Its style is assertive, sporty and elegant. The new civilian version Type XX adds a number of fresh features to the fourth-generation range. The first gold bezel with a bidirectional ring made of ceramic, a material used for the first time in Breguet collections, for this first new-generation Type XX in gold.
Mount Erebus Deep Blue Rose Gold And Alligator
Yesterday's inspiration for today's design
Like the versions released in June 2023, this new timepiece draws inspiration from the emblematic watches dating back to the collection’s origins. Gold was indeed chosen for very rare timepieces in 1955, notably Breguet No. 1780, which now belongs to the Breguet Museum. There were only three gold timepieces in this small series, called either Type 20 (military version) or Type XX (civilian version).
As for the bezel contrasting with the case, they appeared on the second generation of Type XXs dating from the 1970s, which were adorned with different graduations such as tachymeter scales, or with GMT indications.
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These historical references blend with the emblematic codes of the civilian Type XX. The 15-minute counter is located at 3 o'clock, the 12-hour counter at 6 o'clock and the running seconds at 9 o'clock. Just as in the military-inspired version, the size of the counters differs to make the dial more dynamic and legible. The Arabic numerals, the hands and the triangle on the bezel are covered in a white luminescent coating. The date window appears between 4 and 5 o’clock. The 42 mm-diameter rose gold case is fitted with a fluted bidirectional graduated bezel. Its classic straight-line crown can be set in three different positions.
Positions: 1) neutral, winding 2) date setting, 3) time setting. The 2 o'clock pusher is used to start and stop the chronograph function, while the 4 o'clock pusher serves to reset the chronograph and restart it immediately, the famous "flyback" function.
n-42 Cobalt Blue Edition On Hybrid Strap
This new model is presented in a havana-coloured leather box reminiscent of an aircraft wing profile. It is delivered with both alligator leather and NATO straps, in midnight blue. The NATO strap is
embellished with white piping. The interchangeable strap system enables the leather strap to be removed easily, independently and tool-free. Simply pressing the pushers beneath the lugs makes it possible to attach and detach the two halves of the leather strap, while the NATO strap slips between the two bars, passing under the case.
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What's new on the front
Ceramic ring
The graduated, bidirectional rotating bezel in gold features a blue ceramic ring that contrasts elegantly with the gold of the case and numerals, while harmoniously blending with the dial colour.
The dial
Its sunburst blue hue is reminiscent of the variations in the sky after sunset. To add depth, the three counters feature a snailed motif. Finally, the numerals are in gold and filled with luminescent material.
Mount Erebus Deep Blue Yellow Gold And Alligator
Calibre 728
Released in 2023 after four years of development, the 728 movement was conceived, developed and finalised within the Manufacture Breguet. It is of course equipped with a "flyback" function. Prior to its creation, three operations were required instead of just one. The new calibre's innovative start and reset systems have been designed to ensure that they can be used smoothly and accurately. Whatever function is used, the pressure exerted on the pushers is even and balanced. As for the vertical clutch mechanism, it was chosen for its precision upon starting. Finally, to ensure the robustness of the movement and guarantee its precision in the event of shocks, the Maison opted for a cross-through bridge to hold the balance wheel in place.
Designed to take up as much of the space available in the movement as possible, the barrel providing the energy is fitted with a spring whose high-energy-density material provides a longer 60-hour power reserve.
n-42 Cobalt Blue Edition On Block Bracelet
A great deal of effort has gone into the aesthetics of the movement and its decoration: in addition to the sunburst motif, snailing, chamfering, circular graining and other visible decorations on the
components, the brand has given the column wheel a black treatment combining contrast with tribological improvement. The sapphire crystal caseback reveals not only the details of the movement but also its oscillating weight. The blackened gold oscillating weight is shaped like an aircraft wing and engraved with the Breguet logo.
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The Type XX epic, a journey through time
As early as 1949, Breguet – which had long been closely involved in aeronautical circles – developed chronographs with the famous special function that was soon named "flyback". This considerably
simplified the use of the chronograph, thanks to the reset function that instantly restarted the chronograph at the touch of a pusher, a time-saver much appreciated by pilots. In 1952, Breguet was informed that a bid for tender was going to be organised by the French Air Force and submitted models to the Service Technique Aéronautique. In the spring of 1953, these models were approved under the name Type 20. This paved the way for official orders placed and in 1954, the long-hoped-for order arrived: a very large one involving 1,100 units for the French Air Force, followed in 1958 by a 500-unit order for the French Naval Aviation. At the same time, Breguet began selling many civil Type XXs, a trend that would continue for several decades. The first civilian Type XXs were sold in 1953. Since then, different generations have come and gone. Some were innovative, like the Type XXII, reference 3880, with a different 10 hertz frequency. Today, the legend continues with a fourth generation of Type XXs, drawing on Breguet’s watchmaking expertise as well as its assertive aesthetics, making this collection an icon of today and tomorrow.
Promenade Goutte D'Eau
Q&A
Lionel a Marca, CEO
Emmanuel Breguet, VP and Head of Patrimony
- Could you tell us more about the link between aviation and Montres Breguet?
Emmanuel Breguet: Breguet as a company was attuned to the needs of the aviation world from a very early stage. By tradition, it has always accompanied technical progress. After the watches adapted to seafaring navigation, it was only natural to develop watches for airborne navigation. Nor should one forget that one of the great aircraft manufacturers of the time was a certain Louis Breguet, a descendant of Abraham-Louis Breguet. Even though the Breguet family had sold the watch brand, they still kept in touch with it and there is no doubt that Louis Breguet played an awareness-raising role that paid off.
- Why have you brought out a timepiece combining gold and ceramic?
Lionel a Marca: While searching through our archives, we discovered three exceptional models dating from the first generation of Type XX gold watches. We are fortunate to benefit from a very rich heritage for the Type XX, which provides us with an invaluable source of inspiration. After launching a steel model, it was essential to be able to offer a model for our customers who are used to wearing gold. Ceramic is a real newcomer to our collections! I liked its attributes, as it's light, resistant and scratchproof... This material is ideal for a sporty-chic watch! Finally, the contrast we were able to create between the rose gold case and the midnight blue hue of the dial and bezel endows the watch with a highly assertive character.
- The collection now includes this new Type XX. Does this mean that the line is destined to grow?
Lionel a Marca: That's our objective. Last year we laid the foundations for the Type XX collection with the civilian and military versions. Now we want to expand the line by offering different variations. We're going to introduce different sizes and materials. On the other hand, I make it a point of honour to ensure that the complications we develop in this collection have a link with the world of aviation. It is essential for me to maintain consistency within each Breguet line.
- Looking through the archives, do you have any anecdotes to share about gold models?
Emmanuel Breguet: At the beginning of 1955, when Breguet had received the previous year a very large order from the French Air Force for 1,100 units of its "military Type 20" and was busy delivering the first batch of 250, creativity was at its peak. Why not try making a luxury civilian model? Three interesting timepieces appeared, each featuring a gold case and a graduated rotating bezel with blue enamelled numerals! Two were Type 20s (with 30-minute counters) and the third was a Type XX (15-minute counter). The differences don't stop there: one was soon thereafter fitted with a yellow gold bracelet just a few months after its sale; while the other retained its leather strap with a gold folding clasp and the third was given a leather strap with a gold pin buckle. These three watches, that can best be described as experimental, were the only ones of their kind produced... The Breguet Museum managed to buy back one of the three. The second-generation Type XX did not have a gold variation. It was not until 40 years later with the arrival of the third-generation Type XX that an abundance of all kinds of models appeared during the second half of the 1990s in yellow gold, rose gold, white gold and platinum.
m-44 Ocean Blue On Horizon Strap
Specifications of the watch
Type XX Chronograph - civilian version
2067RK/Y9/9WU
Case: rose gold, gold bezel and blue ceramic ring
Diameter: 42 mm
Thickness: 14.1 mm
Dial: sunburst blue
Movement: self-winding
Functions: flyback chronograph, date, small seconds, 15-minute and 12-hour counters
Balance spring: flat, silicon
Escapement: inverted in-line lever escapement with silicon horns
Water resistance: 10 bar (100 m)
Calibre: 728
Frequency: 5 Hz
Power reserve: 60 hours
Components: 350
Strap: set of two interchangeable straps: one in alligator leather, the other in NATO fabric. Each has its own 18K gold pin buckle.
