Aelis Couture Presents Its New Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2023-24 Collection: Underground Flora

In early spring, walking among the uneven stones of the cour carré of the Louvre in Paris, Sofia discovers a small white flower in the shape of a feathered ball. Her grace and fragility challenge the grandeur of the surrounding architecture.

Suddenly, the breath of the wind disintegrates it into a myriad of feather-light seeds that begin to fly between heaven and earth, these miraculous seeds capable of dancing carried by the wind for miles and miles, are the beginning of the journey of the new season of AELIS.

Under-grounded is the seed that generates new life with its roots and it is precisely on this act that reflection leads Sofia to search for a treasure to be reborn in an up-cycling creation.

The classic tutu shape that seems to mimic the dandelion flower looks like a hidden treasure.

Thanks to the collaboration with the Opera de Paris Sofia recovers a small series of vintage tutus no longer used that Cristine Neumeister, director of the costume department, makes available to her.

Thus was born an up-cycling creation where the “tutus plateau” are gathered in a single sculptural and evanescent piece, which preserves the history and the power of the experience that inhabited those forms.

The emotional strength of a dress that carries the history of the elements that constitute it and of the bodies thus becomes the central point of the research of the collection and the evocative strength of the same.

A series of tulle petals created with patience have given life to some creations of different and unexpected shapes, in light and evanescent materials such as organic silk mousseline and tulle.

A white silk cady dress with a pure and minimal cut, embroidered with silver and crystal beads, welcomes a series of petals planted with a few brushstrokes of fairmined silver.

In the same way, in other pieces of the collection the tulle and silver petals willingly rest both on evening dresses and on sweat-shirts embroidered with small metal studs.

A print created by hand with an artisanal transfer technique on organic double satin organza becomes a flower skirt that welcomes the silverblack petals of the tulle top.

The jewels created by Les Interessants assemble elements of metals and crystals of different shapes and colours.

The silk and “unfinished” metal embroideries created from of small shapes cut in iron recall the decorated bands of electric guitars and complete a changeant silk dress in the color of the gleam of silver and a satin jacket of Merino wool.

The film that describes the collection, shot in an underground location, finds the ideal interpreters in Rosalie, Manel, Valentine, Lydie and Ziane.

Rosalie for her young age embodies the symbol of an activist generation that looks to the future with lucidity and distance, but also and above all, with the involvement and sensitivity necessary to undertake the path of respect for the living on the planet.  

Their presence complete the journey of AELIS through natural beauty that always inspire her.

Inspired by the elegance and grace of the ballet, AELIS has established a unique partnership with the Paris Opera to create a dress-sculpture from vintage tutus, made in the prestigious atelier of the Opera.

Sofia Crociani, creator of AELIS, and Christine Neumeister, director of the Paris Opera's costume department, were collaborating to give birth to a piece of art-to wear couture that was presented during the couture show in July.

The up-cycling process allowed Sofia Crociani to reinterpret these vintage tutus inhabited by the history of the bodies that wore them.

These tutus, witnesses of a heritage of know-how and beauty, have been treated like a sculpture harmoniously incorporating both the values of the Paris Opera and the eco-sustainable principles “dear” to AELIS.

Through this creation, the maison AELIS and the Opera de Paris wish to raise awareness in the fashion industry and “the public” of the importance of the up-cycling in sustainable and ethical fashion.

Sofia Crociani, creator of AELIS Couture, declares: "We are honored to start this collaboration with the Paris Opera which was born from the friendship with Christine Neumester. It's an extraordinary opportunity to showcase our commitment to eco-sustainable fashion while celebrating the art and history of dance."