Victoria Beckham Presents Her New Fall-Winter 2024 Collection
Luxferity, 28.03.2024
To dress is to create a form. With the anatomy as our frame, we employ clothes to sculpt our bodies, enhance our physiques and empower our expressions. For the Fall-Winter 2024 Collection, Victoria Beckham re-examines the transformative silhouettes at the core of her brand and abstracts them through the prism of her own creative evolution. Retaining the ease essential to her philosophy, the proposal refines the concept of silhouettes complex in construction but effortless in practice. In the process, a meta conversation takes place within the garments: references to the act of dressing itself, the environment and interior of the wardrobe in which we keep our clothes, and the unconscious and gestural ways in which we carry them.
Illustrating a sense of deceptive simplicity, classic tailoring and outerwear staples transmute in forms that engineer and elevate the body language. The shoulders of blazers, jackets and coats are extended into poised pointed lines or expanded into nonchalant slanted curves. Trousers take shape through illusionary cutting: a relaxed low-crotch escalation trouser crafted in tailoring fabrics intensifies in proportion along the ankle, wraps mercurially around the crus and elongates the leg; a supersized pompière trouser in coated cotton or Japanese denim sculpts itself dramatically on the lower body; and a box-cut suspension trouser is elegantly suspended from its belt loops as if it were attached to the clasps of a clothing hanger. This re-contextualisation of the familiar is echoed in a palette informed by a Julian Schnabel painting from the Sonanbul series, which has graced Victoria Beckham’s home for decades.
Evoking the mechanics of the wardrobe – the fixtures and features that surround our everyday dressing ritual – the hanger motif is echoed in the construction of collier-cut shrunken blazers and baby duffle coats with buttons along the back, allowing the garments to gracefully hang from the neck like breastplates. The notion further manifests in necklet-cut jumpers with deconstructed collars which superimpose the neckline to the front of the neck and create a suspended trompe l’oeil impression. The effect inspires knitwear and dresses cut to sensually twist on the physique like garments tugged across a hanger. Nodding at the clashes of clothing genres found within any wardrobe, zipped ski tops transform into elegant expressions with high collars echoed in the funnel necks of biker, shearling and utility jackets as well as a trench coat.
Underpinned by detachable starched shirt collars and floral-print hold-ups, the collection’s meta interaction with the wardrobe culminates in fluid jersey dresses gathered with wire-hanger brooches tangled in the style of Picasso’s Light Drawings. The wires – an evolving motif in the work of Victoria Beckham – puff up into padded three-dimensional mushroomed details featured throughout the collection; in the raised shoulder darts of blazers, in the necklines and hemlines of garments, and as detached frames from which evening dresses are suspended. Riffing on ideas of suspension, parachute dresses with skirt hems gathered between the ankles create a bouncy, ballooning volume in motion, while the chain print of a dress comes alive in lightweight metal chains hung from a skirt and a bustier.
The collection’s idea of re-sculpting existing forms unfolds in leather loafers re-imagined in round-toe heeled manifestations and ankle-cut slip-ons, as well as in soft-point flats with tassels and penny-loafer straps elevated on rubber platform soles. Drawing on the grammar of vanity cases, a new cubic top-handle evening bag appears in small and nano dimensions in shiny or grained leather, while The Victoria with its characteristic V-stitch architecture appears in its original shape as well as a new clutch adaptation. A new top-handle briefcase in glazed or grained leather features in a traditional size and morphs into a small evening bag. The B Buckle bag manifests in croc-embossed leather in two dimensions. Square top-bar sunglasses with V-triangle temples are set with faded lenses in the colours of the collection, which likewise echo in the alabaster-like pendants of gold-metal necklaces.
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