GCDS Presents Its New Spring/Summer 2024 Collection: Mediterraneo
Luxferity, 21.09.2023
Every journey ends where it started: home. Coming back, however, does not mean reverting the course of time, nor that of space, but inhabiting one’s own place once again with the awareness and the knowledge acquired away and along the way. This is to say that after long and lengthy detours in fantastic, outlandish, cartoonish, excessive, bombastic territories, with this collection Giuliano Calza is coming back home. He is literally doing so. In fact, the show happens in-house, in the GCDS headquarters, in a set reminiscent of the atelier presentations that were the rule, back in the day.
The intimate ambiance allows guests to truly savor the clothes, rather than being distracted by the spectacle. There is nothing Giuliano loves more than making clothes: objects with an everyday meaning and use, companions of the journey of life. Clothes he, his acquaintances and community, would love to wear and actually wear.
The collection marks a decisive homecoming. Giuliano explores the Neapolitan, but also the street roots of the brand and Giuliano, which means also coming to terms with the logo, and flaunting it, with much gusto and bravado. All of this with a new awareness, which is essentially the atelier feeling prompted by the fashion loving spirit of its author, that has marked GCDS’s growth in recent years.
Thereafter there is denim and leather, but aldo straw, and lots of very bourgeois tweeds, as in sciura tailleurs; there is loafers and white socks, tailoring and shirting, long and short ribbed dresses and touches of glamour. All of it mixed with a certain spontaneity, with the insouciance of appreciating formality and breaking it all up a bit. The logo is present, yet subtle, even in the place of a heel. A beloved bakelite telephone comes back as a wooden bag, platforms and heels elevate the silhouette and the discreet charm of the bourgeoisie is taken this way and that.
The homecoming allows GCDS to start yet a new journey, and so forth.
