Duran Lantink Presents His New Fall Winter 2025 Collection: Duranimal
Luxferity, 10.03.2025
Amsterdam and Paris-based design label Duran Lantink showed a collection of 53 looks in his self-titled show, Duranimal.
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Aptly named, the collection is marked by its bold use of animal prints; jackets in zebra-print pony hair, reworked snakeskin, repurposed cowskin from LVMH’s deadstock supplier, and velvet leopard print, shown with flashes of camouflage and plaid to create unexpected combinations of all kinds. Its focus on prints also extends to its first collaboration with the Italian footwear brand Sergio Rossi, which crafted the custom runway shoes. To cement the theme, several models were body-painted in zebra and leopard. “I can handle ‘bad taste’ too”, says Lantink of his daring pattern play.
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Known for his exaggerated forms, the designer is focusing on using more tapered silhouettes to explore ‘shape as a style,’ moving away from the bubble look that has characterized previous collections. There is still plenty of drama; in particular two dresses with an interlocking form, hand-knit by a group of women in the Netherlands in merino wool. It is worth noting that the designer is a finalist for the Woolmark Prize, which is set for later this month.
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This is the first time Lantink has collaborated with Paris-based production company Bureau Betak, using its soon-to-be new offices as the show space and incorporating its daily business into the concept. Building on this, collaborator and sound artist Frederic Sanchez proposed a partly improvised a cappella performance by Parisian choristers inspired by an avant garde sound-piece from the 1970’s. Donning Converse, the choristers performed the piece while seated in their cubicles as the models strode past, continuing well after the finale to create an ambiguous ending to the show. “It’s really great to work with Frederic because he gives you that deeper layer; when we discussed the idea of bringing opera singers in the office I thought it aligned perfectly with my collection of odd combinations,” says Lantink.
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Playful allusions to Americana could also be found in the collection; in ‘Duranimal’ varsity jackets, denim ‘bareback’ jeans, and the headwear, designed with a ‘Wild West meets futuristic’ aesthetic in mind. Perhaps most notably, the first and last looks of the show featured prosthetic body parts, whereas models were presented as action figures. “I love the idea of women as action figures,” says Lantink. “I think everyone should feel empowered to create their own identity and not feel restricted by anything.”
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