BVLGARI BREAKS THE MOLD IN SWISS WATCHMAKING

Luxferity, 12.04.2019

WatchesRecommend Recommend

The Italian Rinascimento comes to Baselworld 2019 with the thinnest mechanical chronograph in history, Bvlgari’s fifth world record. The new Serpenti Seduttori is the latest incarnation of the cult watch “born to be gold.”

In a word, Bvlgari style is unexpected. For more than a century, its designs have cast aside the old in search of what is next. Fearless designs move boldly into new territory, forever challenging themselves to be more daring, more beautiful, more sublime. True to form, Bvlgari has replicated this spirit with its exceptional timepieces, and is at the forefront of a new Rinascimento that breaks the mold of Swiss watchmaking, rewriting the rules for contemporary watches with every debut. As do the two highlights of Baselworld 2019: the new Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Automatic taking home a fifth world record and the Serpenti Seduttori “born to be gold” collection.

Bvlgari’s latest designs champion boundless creativity, leveraging the unique heritage of the Roman jeweler to create iconic modern timepieces. “Our capability of fusing edgy, magnificent Italian design with the ultimate Swiss engineering and craftsmanship — this is why I talk about Rinascimento from Bvlgari. It is truly a revolution of design and technology,” says Jean-Christophe Babin, CEO of Bvlgari.

The saga of Octo Finissimo reaches a new pinnacle with its setting of a fifth world record — for the thinnest ever mechanical Chronograph in watchmaking history. The most extraordinary breakthrough is that it is an Automatic with GMT function and a record-setting 3.3mm thinness i.e. the thinnest than the insofar existing flat automatic chronograph movements. This integrated movement is another demonstration of Bvlgari’s skills in Haute Horlogerie. The Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Automatic represents the fifth element for the collection — in other words, it is the quintessence of Octo, a perfect fusion of design and technology in a remarkably thin body. Neither round nor square, Octo has created its own codes since it was first released and, with its Finissimo collection, helped launch the industry trend for ultra-thin watches. 

Also debuting at Baselworld 2019 is the new and unique piece Octo Roma Grande Sonnerie with Perpetual Calendar. Created to commemorate the 25th anniversary of the first Grande Sonnerie by Gerald Genta in 1994, it is an impeccable new addition to Bvlgari’s Grande Sonnerie assortment. Since 1994, Bvlgari has introduced more than 90 Grande Sonnerie watches and 2019 is poised to be the year of the Grande Sonnerie for Bvlgari. The movements have been fine-tuned from the beginning, and benefit from a security setting that protects the movement when winding with the chime and avoids activating the minute repeating system in grande sonnerie mode, offering the ultimate available know-how for such a complex movement. The new model is a modern masterpiece that perfectly epitomizes Bvlgari’s mastery of Swiss mechanical and horological expertise. Bvlgari is the number one brand among chiming watches, having mastered that specialty with 2, 3 and 4 hammers (Grande Sonnerie).

The Octo saga goes ahead with the unveiling of the new Octo Finissimo Ceramic that forges ahead, writing a new chapter with its use of high-tech materials. In addition, Bvlgari introduces a spectacular new creation for those who value transparency, balance and beauty: Octo Roma Tourbillon Sapphire. The formal purity of this exceptional watch captures a new watchmaking vision — it allows light to flood in to showcase its mechanism through a beautifully modern and innovative design crafted in sapphire, rose gold and a contrasting blue calibre.

Fearlessly designed to be more beautiful, more sublime: that’s the new Serpenti Seduttori, the current reimagination of the cult Serpenti watch. Born to be gold, it makes time feel precious, casting a golden glow on all the beautiful moments in a woman’s life. Making no apologies for its larger-than-life powers of seduction, it feels like a total indulgence. This new collection features an unprecedented design that represents a bold new chapter for the world of Serpenti timepieces with its iconic drop-shaped watch head, a motif that comes from the Serpenti Tubogas watch. Serpenti is known for its recognizable case shape and the new Seduttori is thinner than ever before; it has a flexible new bracelet inspired by the original Serpenti watches and is crowned in cabochon-cut gemstones in a nod to Bvlgari’s DNA as the Roman jeweler. The collection includes watches in rose gold, yellow gold, white gold, and diamond pavé.

Within the rich landscape of contemporary watchmaking, Bvlgari breaks the mold with its drastically different approach to design, technology and craftsmanship. It continues to rewrite the rules for the entire industry. Artful, rooted in a heritage of larger-than-life style, exuberance and expertise, these pieces champion Bvlgari values and pave the road into a thrilling new future for Swiss watchmaking.

BASELWORLD HIGHLIGHTS

Now more than ever, Bvlgari is intensifying the impact of its most recognizable icons through two of its master collections: Serpenti and Octo. The cult-model Octo 2019 offers several new facets that underscore contemporary design, technical innovation, micro-mechanical complexity and the use of high-tech materials.

Having won a fifth world record, Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Automatic is an emblem of Bvlgari expertise. With a manufactured integrated movement that displays the classical chronograph functions, it also has a GMT function that allows one to set the local time with a button at 9h. The home time is indicated on the subcounter at 3h: graduated on 24 hours, it indicates day or night. The chronograph minutes counter is positioned at 6h, while the small seconds counter is at 9h. This exquisite creation rewinds automatically thanks to its peripheral mass.

In addition, Octo Finissimo innovates on the materials side: every component of the two new Octo Finissimo Ceramic models – automatic plain execution and manual rewind skeleton – is crafted in this high-tech material: the case, dial, bracelet and deployant buckle are all made of black sandblasted ceramic. Bvlgari has reached the extreme limits of thinness with these two Finissimo styles, due to the complexity of production linked to this breakable material. For once, it is truly impossible to go thinner!

In its ongoing quest for unexpected innovation at 360 degrees, Bvlgari introduces the Octo Roma Tourbillon Sapphire. Featuring extraordinary transparency, an aerial flying tourbillon and uncommon elegance, this limited edition watch captures Bvlgari’s engineering expertise in exploring unconventional reinterpretations of the complicated watch. At the pinnacle of the assortment, Bvlgari celebrates the 25th anniversary of the first Grande Sonnerie manufactured in Le Sentier with a unique piece, the Octo Roma Grande Sonnerie Perpetual Calendar. This exceptionally complicated watch, with an automatic caliber BVL 980, aligns grande and petite sonnerie, minute repeater, tourbillon, perpetual calendar, moon phases, movement and chime power reserve indicators. The 44-mm case is made in carbon CTP and features a carbon middle part, a blend that delivers the best sound experience for a movement that comprises a total of 1180 components.

In addition to its Swiss watch expertise, the Roman Jeweler is known for its magnificent design sensibility. The new Serpenti Seduttori collection is the ultimate expression of that character. The drop-shaped case and stylized hexagonal bracelet links are perfectly integrated and emphasize a new interpretation of the theme, celebrating the eternal renewal of the icon that was “born to be gold.” Seduttori literally flows on the wrist and radiates an unmistakable aura of power and sensuality.

BASELWORLD HIGHLIGHTS TECHNICAL CHARACTERISTICS

OCTO

OCTO FINISSIMO CHRONOGRAPH GMT AUTOMATIC 103068

Movement

Mechanical manufacture chronograph and GMT movement with automatic winding (peripheral mass) and small seconds - BVL 318 caliber (3.30mm thick). 55 hours power reserve; local timezone adjusted through the push button at 9h.

Case and dial

42 mm extra-thin titanium case (6.90 mm thick) with transparent case back; titanium crown set with ceramic; sandblasted titanium dial; water-resistant up to 30 meters.

Bracelet

Sandblasted titanium bracelet with folding clasp.

 OCTO ROMA GRANDE SONNERIE PERPETUAL CALENDAR 103195

Movement

Mechanical manufacture movement with automatic winding, BVL 980 caliber with Grande and Petite sonnerie, Minute repeater, Tourbillon, Perpetual calendar, moon phases, movement and chime power reserve indicators.

Case and dial

44 mm Carbon CTP case with rose gold indexes, hands, crown and push buttons. 

Carbon middle case; smoked sapphire dial.

Strap

Alligator strap with titanium with DLC (Diamond like Carbon) treatment folding clasp.

OCTO FINISSIMO AUTOMATIC CERAMIC 103077

Movement

Mechanical manufacture movement with automatic winding (platinum microrotor) and small second - BVL 138 Finissimo caliber (2.23mm thick) decorated by hand with Côtes de Genève, chamfering and perlage finishing; 60 hours power reserve.

Case and dial

40 mm extra-thin ceramic case (5.50mm thick) with transparent case back; ceramic crown set with ceramic; ceramic dial; water-resistant up to 30 meters.

Bracelet

Ceramic bracelet with ceramic folding clasp. 

OCTO FINISSIMO SKELETON CERAMIC 103126

Movement

Mechanical skeletonized manufacture movement with manual winding, small seconds and power reserve indication - BVL 128SK Finissimo caliber (2.35mm); 65 hours power reserve.

Case and dial

40 mm extra-thin ceramic case (5.50mm thick) with transparent case back; ceramic crown set with ceramic; water-resistant up to 30 meters.

Bracelet

Ceramic bracelet with ceramic folding clasp. 

OCTO ROMA TOURBILLON SAPPHIRE 103157

Movement

Mechanical manufacture movement BVL 206 caliber (manual winding) with flying tourbillon. Blue caliber decorated with 18kt rose gold indexes on the bridges.

Case

44 mm sandblasted 18kt rose gold case, sapphire middle case. 

Strap

Blue alligator strap with 18kt rose gold folding clasp.

SERPENTI SEDUTTORI

SERPENTI SEDUTTORI ROSE GOLD 103145

18kt rose gold bracelet with hexagonal stylized pattern and folding buckle; 18kt rose gold 33mm case; 18kt rose gold crown set with a cabochon-cut pink rubellite; opaline silver-toned dial; Bvlgari-personalised high-precision quartz movement. Water-resistant to 30m.

SERPENTI SEDUTTORI ROSE GOLD AND DIAMONDS 103146

18kt rose gold bracelet with hexagonal stylized pattern and folding buckle; 18kt rose gold 33mm case set with 38 brilliant-cut diamonds (0.38 ct); 18kt rose gold crown set with a cabochon-cut pink rubellite; opaline silver-toned dial; Bvlgari-personalised high-precision quartz movement. Water-resistant to 30m.

SERPENTI SEDUTTORI ROSE GOLD FULL PAVE 103160

18kt rose gold bracelet with hexagonal stylized pattern and folding buckle full set with round brilliant-cut diamonds; 18kt rose gold 33mm case set with 50 round brilliant-cut diamonds on the bezel. Snow pavé case set with 166 round brilliant-cut diamonds; 18kt rose gold crown set with a cabochon-cut ruby; 18kt rose gold dial snow set with diamonds; Bvlgari-personalised high-precision quartz movement. Water-resistant to 30m.

SERPENTI SEDUTTORI YELLOW GOLD AND DIAMONDS 103147

18kt yellow gold bracelet with hexagonal stylized pattern and folding buckle; 18kt yellow gold 33mm case set with 38 brilliant-cut diamonds (0.38 ct); 18kt yellow gold crown set with a cabochon-cut pink rubellite; opaline silver-toned dial; Bvlgari-personalised high-precision quartz movement. Water-resistant to 30m.

SERPENTI SEDUTTORI WHITE GOLD AND DIAMONDS 103148

18kt white gold bracelet with hexagonal stylized pattern and folding buckle; 18kt white gold 33mm case set with 38 brilliant-cut diamonds (0.38 ct); 18kt white gold crown set with a cabochon-cut blue sapphire; opaline silver-toned dial; Bvlgari-personalised high-precision quartz movement. Water-resistant to 30m.

SERPENTI SEDUTTORI WHITE GOLD FULL PAVE 103159

18kt white gold bracelet with hexagonal stylized pattern and folding buckle full set with round brilliant-cut diamonds; 18kt white gold 33mm case set with 50 round brilliant-cut diamonds on the bezel. Snow pavé case set with 166 round brilliant-cut diamonds; 18kt white gold crown set with a cabochon-cut blue sapphire; 18kt white gold dial snow set with diamonds; Bvlgari-personalised high-precision quartz movement. Water-resistant to 30m.

OTHER NOVELTIES

Bvlgari Geneva days 2019: Bvlgari leads Swiss Watchmaking Italian Rinascimento, further reimagining Jewelry watches and Grandes complications

“Fusing Italian design with extraordinary Swiss engineering is about creating masterpieces constituting enduring legends.” 

Jean-Christophe Babin, CEO of Bvlgari

With the preview of the 2019 collection in Geneva last January, one theme rose above the rest: Bvlgari more than ever leads a deep Rinascimento of Swiss Watchmaking with daring innovations combining bold Italian design and complex Swiss mechanical and horological craftsmanship epitomized by the new Divas’ Dream Finissima Minute Repeater and the new Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Carbon.

The Roman jeweler celebrating its 135 years in 2019 and known for its artistry and craftsmanship in jewelry watches since 1918 proposes this year an extraordinary cocktail of news on Diva, Serpenti, Lvcea and Octo, the Maison four main watch icons which have been leading Bvlgari Horlogerie superior growth since one decade.

The Geneva days jewelry watches are the pinnacle of this unique heritage. The masterpiece is the new Diva Finissima Minute Repeater blending the jeweler’s touch with the finest of Grande complication watchmaking. It is set with diamonds around the deep aventurine dial, detailed with a fan-shaped Diva’s Dream charm acting as the minute repeater lever, and also covered in diamond pavé. Diva Finissima is the thinnest ever Minute Repeater lady’s movement.

Divas’ Dream proposes also an unexpected and colorful “métier d’art” with a jewelry watch set with a real peacock feather on its face—perhaps the greatest example of Bvlgari’s devotion to unexpected materials and vivid colors. Two new Lvcea Skeleton watches bring together some of Bvlgari’s most iconic design codes. One is set on a Tubogas bracelet, with a rose gold bezel, pink cabochon cut gemstone and diamonds. The other Lvcea Skeleton comprises a white gold case set with sapphires and diamonds around the bezel. Serpenti proposes a new Spiga execution artfully blending rose gold and brown ceramics, with a metallic finishing. This positions the snake brand icon as a 21st century contemporary although timeless watch.

Bvlgari’s distinctive style once again harnesses the power of Italian design with a focus on unique shapes and materials such as the new Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Automatic fully dressed in Carbon: simply 48 grams of esthetic pleasure on the wrist. The thinnest ever automatic carbon watch!

OTHER NOVELTIES TECHNICAL CHARACTERISTICS

DIVAS’ DREAM

DIVAS’ DREAM FINISSIMA MINUTE REPEATER 103138

Movement

Mechanical manufacture extra-thin movement with a minute repeater function with two hammers (manual winding), world’s thinnest minute repeater, BVL 362 caliber.

Case and dial

37 mm 18kt white gold case and petals fully snow-set with round-cut diamonds. Transparent back case. 18kt white gold crown set with a facetted diamond.

Blue aventurine dial set with nine diamond indexes and an off-centered seconds counter.

Strap

Shiny blue alligator strap with 18kt white gold 3-blade folding buckle set with brilliant cut diamonds.

Limited edition of 10 pieces.

DIVAS’ DREAM PEACOCK 103139

Movement

Manufacture mechanical movement with automatic winding. BVL 191 caliber.

Case and dial

37 mm 18kt rose gold case set with brilliant-cut diamonds on the bezel and 18kt rose gold crown set with a cabochon-cut rubellite. 18kt rose gold link set with brilliant-cut diamonds. Dial made of a natural peacock feather. Water resistant to 30 metres. 

Strap

Taupe alligator strap with 18kt rose gold ardillon buckle.

OCTO

OCTO FINISSIMO TOURBILLON AUTOMATIC CARBON 103072

Movement

Mechanical manufacture skeleton movement with automatic winding, world's thinnest tourbillon caliber BVL 288 with ultra-thin flying tourbillon and specific ball-bearings system (1.95 mm thin). High end finishing. 52 hours power reserve.

Case and dial

42 mm ultra-thin carbon CTP case (5.38mm thick) with transparent case back. Skeletonized dial with black finishing.

Bracelet

Carbon bracelet with steel DLC 3 blades folding buckle.

Limited edition of 50 pieces.

OCTO L’ORIGINALE SOLOTEMPO 103085

Movement

Mechanical manufacture movement with automatic winding and date. BVL 191 Solotempo caliber decorated with Côtes de Genève, chamfering and snailed finishing. 42 hours power reserve.

Case and dial

41 mm sandblasted steel case treated with DLC, 18kt rose gold octagon. 18kt rose gold crown, transparent back case. Anthracite dial with 18kt rose gold hand-applied indexes. Water-resistant to 100 metres.

Strap

Integrated rubber strap with steel ardillon buckle treated with black DLC.

OCTO L’ORIGINALE CHRONOGRAPH 103075

Movement

Mechanical manufacture high-frequency chronograph with silicon escapement, automatic winding and date. Calibre BVL 328 Velocissimo caliber decorated with perlage, Côtes de Genève and chamfering finishing. 50 hours power reserve.

Case and dial

41mm sandblasted steel case treated with DLC, 18kt rose gold octagon. 18kt rose gold crown, transparent back case. Anthracite dial with 18kt rose gold hand-applied indexes. Water-resistant up to 100 metres.

Strap

Integrated rubber strap with steel ardillon buckle treated with black DLC.

OCTO ROMA 103084

Movement

Mechanical manufacture movement with automatic winding and date. BVL 191 Solotempo caliber decorated with Côtes de Genève, chamfering and snailed finishing. 42 hours power reserve.

Case and dial

41 mm steel case with transparent case back. Steel crown set with ceramic. Black dial with hand-applied indexes. Water-resistant up to 50 metres.

Strap

Black alligator strap with steel ardillon buckle.

OCTO ROMA 103083

Movement

Mechanical manufacture movement with automatic winding and date. BVL 191 - Solotempo caliber decorated with Côtes de Genève, chamfering and snailed finishing. 42 hours power reserve.

Case and dial

41 mm steel case with 18kt rose gold octagon and transparent case back. 18kt rose gold crown set with ceramic. Anthracite dial with hand-applied indexes. Water-resistant up to 50 metres

Bracelet

Steel bracelet with folding clasp.

SERPENTI

SERPENTI TUBOGAS 103150

Quartz movement. 35 mm steel curved case with 18kt rose gold bezel set with diamonds. 18kt rose gold crown set with a cabochon-cut rubellite. Paved dial. Single-spiral steel and rose gold bracelet.

SERPENTI SPIGA 103060

Quartz movement. 35 mm brown ceramic with special metallized treatment curved case with 18kt rose gold bezel set with diamonds. 18kt rose gold crown set with a cabochon-cut ceramic. Brown dial. Single-spiral brown ceramic with special metallized treatment bracelet with 18kt rose gold elements.

LVCEA

LVCEA SKELETON TUBOGAS 103093

Manufacture mechanical movement with automatic winding and skeleton execution, BVL 191 SK. 33 mm steel case with 18kt rose gold bezel. 18kt rose gold crown set with a pink cabochon-cut stone and diamond details. Open work BVLGARI logo dial set with diamonds. Steel Tubogas bracelet.

LVCEA SKELETON 103091

Manufacture mechanical movement with automatic winding and skeleton execution, BVL 191 SK. 33 mm 18kt white gold case set with round brilliant-cut sapphires on the bezel. 18kt white gold crown set with a sapphire and diamond. Open work BVLGARI logo dial set with diamonds. Blue alligator strap.

BVLGARI HORLOGERIE

An almost 400-strong personnel and five world records

Bvlgari Horlogerie: Italian values, Swiss expertise. Within a few years, this unique combination has laid key milestones in 21st century watchmaking with five records. The first was a Tourbillon launched in 2014, followed in 2016 by a Minute Repeater, then an Automatic movement in 2017 and the world’s thinnest Automatic Tourbillon model in 2018. This year Bvlgari presents the thinnest Chronograph which marks its fifth word record. These five achievements all stem from the now iconic Octo Finissimo line and each can lay claim to the title of the thinnest in the world in its respective category.

With a current approximately 400-strong workforce and integrated production of all watch parts spread over different sites in the Jura mountains, at the heart of a major hub of the most sophisticated skills and crafts, Bvlgari Horlogerie has developed so strongly that now it fully masters the production of mechanical watch movements. From the Finissimo calibres holding five world records to Grande Sonnerie models as well as Solotempo self-winding base movements, the Maison masters the entire spectrum of watch mechanisms as well as the manufacture of all watch components, with cases and dials also made in-house. The operational hub in Neuchâtel handles watch assembly and final testing.

The highly diverse personnel of Bvlgari Horlogerie presents dozens of highly specialised professions dedicated to serving perfection and beauty through a blend of Swiss expertise and Italian creativity.

This quest is shared in close partnership with Bvlgari Jewelry when it relates to precious watches. Both activities are the Brand’s legitimate territories and Bvlgari Horlogerie implements logical and natural synergies with its Jewelry facilities for such specific products. As for complicated watches, craftsmanship is of central importance also for jewelry watches. The jeweled elements of each jewelry timepiece are crafted in the Bvlgari Jewelry manufacture in Valenza or in the High Jewelry workshop in Rome, depending on the product’s features and its preciousness. The type of production carried out there is the traditional lost-wax casting technique. Expert goldsmiths clean, assemble and finish all the metal elements, giving shape to the actual watch element: bracelets and stone-set cases. Special attention is reserved to details, since it is fundamental that every element perfectly interlocks with the others, following the natural movement of the wrist and that the clasps and settings are expertly realized. Expertise and experience are necessary during the delicate phase of setting the gems, to ensure that every stone is firmly anchored in place. The watch element itself is assembled in Neuchâtel, where the movement in encased and the final quality control is carried out. 

Courtesy of Bulgari